Q: Looking for somebody to install crown molding on my first floor before I get the painters in.
A: Wouldn’t it be easier to:
1) Paint the walls w/o molding
2) Paint/Spray the crown molding outside
3) Install crown molding already painted
4) Touch up nail holes
Advantage – Don’t have to worry about getting paint from the walls on the new crown molding
A: I disagree, but not because I’m trying to be difficult. It definitely would be easier, but I don’t think it would look as good.
• Truly skilled professional painters should be able to manage not getting paint on anything they don’t intend to paint, such as crown molding.
• Unless you have non-textured walls that are truly completely flat and straight, there will likely be some amount of putty involved to hide gaps between the molding and the wall. Skilled painters will be able to paint in a way that allows for the any putty to blend properly and not pull on the eye.
• A skilled painter also will wait a few days before coming to paint as putty needs some time to set.
Note my liberal use of the word “skilled”. I did this all myself, and while the effect is “good enough” to people who visit, I know exactly where my mistakes are and I grind my teeth daily, wanting to fix it. I can’t imaging paying someone and getting something as good (as bad) as I can do!
A: I have used both approaches numerous times (“install and then paint” versus “paint and then install”).
Nowadays, I always go with “install and paint” because pain touch ups when filling nail holes always show up and it is actually better looking to paint everything after install.
You will get paint in within the small gaps in the joints which will give things a tighter look.
I have also had great results with a mix of both approaches: prime / paint one coat before installing and then put the last coat after installation.
A: A trip that our crown installer taught me was to paint the very bottom edge of the crown the color of the walls. It really helps hide where the wall may not be completely even and there are areas of heavy caulking, plus it easily creates a nice straight line on the crown without the use of tape.
A: +1 on the prime/paint one coat and then install. This is how I always do it, then I caulk the molding, paint the final coat and touch-up the wall anywhere needed due to the caulking (I am too lazy to tape before caulking.)
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
How to install drip edge
Q: During rains I have water leaking down the fascia board behind my gutters. The downspouts are not stopped up. How much should the shingles overhang the roof decking, and extend over the gutters? I have a bay window which extends out from the walls to the fascia board and has received damage from all the water running down it. During a rain there is almost a solid sheet of water running off the fascia boards, I just as well not have gutters. HELP!
A: It sounds like you have no drip edge on your roof. Most gutters get tucked in behind the drip edge and eliminate this problem.
Assuming that you "have" a drip edge, I usually overhang about 1/2" to 5/8" past the drip edge with my starters and first course of shingles. It shows how to do it on the shingle bundle wrapper.
A: There are slight different type of drip edges http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27-108-drip-edge.aspx.
The lower edge of the roof is the edge that first row of shingle is laying on. The drip edge should be put underneath of felt (memberance).
The rake edge (sloped edge) is two arm of the triangle. Those shingles have been nailed on the roof. The drip edge should be installed between felt and shingle.
Here is a installation instruction http://www.rollex.com/pdf/dripedge.pdf
Another quick way to fix the problem is to put vinyl gutter cover sold in Homedepot or Lowes underneath of felt. It is not necessary to nail the gutter cover unless you want to.
A: It sounds like you have no drip edge on your roof. Most gutters get tucked in behind the drip edge and eliminate this problem.
Assuming that you "have" a drip edge, I usually overhang about 1/2" to 5/8" past the drip edge with my starters and first course of shingles. It shows how to do it on the shingle bundle wrapper.
A: There are slight different type of drip edges http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27-108-drip-edge.aspx.
The lower edge of the roof is the edge that first row of shingle is laying on. The drip edge should be put underneath of felt (memberance).
The rake edge (sloped edge) is two arm of the triangle. Those shingles have been nailed on the roof. The drip edge should be installed between felt and shingle.
Here is a installation instruction http://www.rollex.com/pdf/dripedge.pdf
Another quick way to fix the problem is to put vinyl gutter cover sold in Homedepot or Lowes underneath of felt. It is not necessary to nail the gutter cover unless you want to.
Dryer Vent Cleaning
Q: We are looking for a handyman to clean our dryer went. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
A: They sell this dryer vent cleaning kit at Fred Meyers for around $20 bucks. Works pretty well for me. Its has a vacuum attachment that I attached to my shop vac and it worked great
A: They sell this dryer vent cleaning kit at Fred Meyers for around $20 bucks. Works pretty well for me. Its has a vacuum attachment that I attached to my shop vac and it worked great
Air Duct Cleaning
Q: Does anyone have recommendations on air duct cleaning services? We also have an unpleasant urine-like smell coming from one of the floor vents. Any suggestions as to how to deal with that?
A: They’re expensive. I just called them today for a duct cleaning (for October) so I know they do them. $3xx+ for 13 ducts (additional ducts are extra) but it sounds like they clean them the right way (as opposed to basically doing nothing and charging you for it).
A: That actually sounds too inexpensive for that many ducts done the right way, unless they know all the access holes have already been cut during a previous cleaning. Even then it’s a bit low as this is not a quick service, easily 4hrs (our 10-vent took 6hrs for one worker because it was the first proper cleaning it had ever had, and there were no pre-existing access holes).
A: They told me roughly 6 hours for this.
A: “Access holes” ? Man, that’s pretty thorough, more thorough than I want. (Access holes sounds a bit unsightly).
What Duct Cleaning company does depends on the design of your system, mine was difficult for them. Basically they drag a huge vacuum into the house and connect it to one of the vents most central to the system. The then go around and block off all of the other vents in the house. They then figure out the path from the central point to the most outward vent, and start with that vent: unblock it, stick a hose in there with compressed air, and blow dust / debris towards the vacuum. If the system is undamaged, this provides them with quite enough suction to clean out a lot of stuff (they were pulling cat food out of my ducts, and my system has a hole.) Once they get to the next vent, they re-block the last vent, unblock the new vent, and continue. Eventually they’ve pushed everything to the center of the system where their vacuum captures it.
This is pretty much “good enough” for dust and apparently cat food.
A: Sounds similar to what I had done, but:
The huge vacuum is a MONSTER truck outside with a flexible duct around 1’ in diameter that they run through your house to the central furnace and hook up to the intake of the furnace.
The compressed air hose has a spider attachment that flails around scraping all the dust/mold/etc out of the ducting
The access holes (1” circles) were needed to do a really thorough job at areas that had T intersections.
A: They’re expensive. I just called them today for a duct cleaning (for October) so I know they do them. $3xx+ for 13 ducts (additional ducts are extra) but it sounds like they clean them the right way (as opposed to basically doing nothing and charging you for it).
A: That actually sounds too inexpensive for that many ducts done the right way, unless they know all the access holes have already been cut during a previous cleaning. Even then it’s a bit low as this is not a quick service, easily 4hrs (our 10-vent took 6hrs for one worker because it was the first proper cleaning it had ever had, and there were no pre-existing access holes).
A: They told me roughly 6 hours for this.
A: “Access holes” ? Man, that’s pretty thorough, more thorough than I want. (Access holes sounds a bit unsightly).
What Duct Cleaning company does depends on the design of your system, mine was difficult for them. Basically they drag a huge vacuum into the house and connect it to one of the vents most central to the system. The then go around and block off all of the other vents in the house. They then figure out the path from the central point to the most outward vent, and start with that vent: unblock it, stick a hose in there with compressed air, and blow dust / debris towards the vacuum. If the system is undamaged, this provides them with quite enough suction to clean out a lot of stuff (they were pulling cat food out of my ducts, and my system has a hole.) Once they get to the next vent, they re-block the last vent, unblock the new vent, and continue. Eventually they’ve pushed everything to the center of the system where their vacuum captures it.
This is pretty much “good enough” for dust and apparently cat food.
A: Sounds similar to what I had done, but:
The huge vacuum is a MONSTER truck outside with a flexible duct around 1’ in diameter that they run through your house to the central furnace and hook up to the intake of the furnace.
The compressed air hose has a spider attachment that flails around scraping all the dust/mold/etc out of the ducting
The access holes (1” circles) were needed to do a really thorough job at areas that had T intersections.
Leaky Toilet tank
Q: I have a leaky toilet tank. Yesterday, I heard water trickling sounds intermittently between flushes. I tried the food coloring test and it confirmed the tank is leaking. It is not running always – but just makes a trickling water sound now and then.
Is this something I can fix myself ? If someone has experience, can you please share with me. ( I tried locating the flapper, but my tank doesn’t seem to have the regular chain and flapper. The trip handle is integrated with a central big pipe/structure which joins to the base of the tank)
Do you have any good ( and inexpensive) plumber recommendations?
A: When you push the handle do you see anything move in the tank? There has to be something at the bottom of the tank that controls when the water goes in... I replaced my broken filler with a FluidMaster which can best be described as a ‘big pipe structure thing’ since I no longer have a floating ball in the tank, but that still connect via chain to the flapper.
A: I’m having roughly the same problem. I think water is leaking into the actual toilet from the tank, but I’m not 100% sure. Who is a good person to call?
A: It could be the “flapper,” the thing at the bottom of the toilet tank (rubber device) that forms a seal between the tank and the toilet. Try pressing down on it (gently) with a ruler or some other long object (so you don’t get your arm wet) and see if you still hear gurgling. If not, then the flapper is worn out and needs to be replaced. You can check on the internet to see how this is done (links below).
If you still hear gurgling when you press down on the flapper, then it could be that the float needs to be adjusted. The float is the balloon-like thing that is screwed to a bar that connects to the left side of the toilet (usually; at least on my toilet). Try lifting the float just a little bit to see if the gurgling/bubbling noise stops. If it does, then the bar may need to either be bent up a little bit so the float goes “higher” or otherwise adjusted.
My toilet (a Mansfield) has a screw that you could adjust to raise/lower the float. I had the same problem as you describe below, and was able to fix it by adjusting the height of the float. Now, the toilet is nice and quiet.
You could try http://www.familyhandyman.com/ and a few other sites like This Old House, diynetwork.com, etc. to search for toilet repair tips, and I think they will have stuff like this outlined. I found this info in a Home Depot DIY book I bought from Home Depot ~2 years ago.
Is this something I can fix myself ? If someone has experience, can you please share with me. ( I tried locating the flapper, but my tank doesn’t seem to have the regular chain and flapper. The trip handle is integrated with a central big pipe/structure which joins to the base of the tank)
Do you have any good ( and inexpensive) plumber recommendations?
A: When you push the handle do you see anything move in the tank? There has to be something at the bottom of the tank that controls when the water goes in... I replaced my broken filler with a FluidMaster which can best be described as a ‘big pipe structure thing’ since I no longer have a floating ball in the tank, but that still connect via chain to the flapper.
A: I’m having roughly the same problem. I think water is leaking into the actual toilet from the tank, but I’m not 100% sure. Who is a good person to call?
A: It could be the “flapper,” the thing at the bottom of the toilet tank (rubber device) that forms a seal between the tank and the toilet. Try pressing down on it (gently) with a ruler or some other long object (so you don’t get your arm wet) and see if you still hear gurgling. If not, then the flapper is worn out and needs to be replaced. You can check on the internet to see how this is done (links below).
If you still hear gurgling when you press down on the flapper, then it could be that the float needs to be adjusted. The float is the balloon-like thing that is screwed to a bar that connects to the left side of the toilet (usually; at least on my toilet). Try lifting the float just a little bit to see if the gurgling/bubbling noise stops. If it does, then the bar may need to either be bent up a little bit so the float goes “higher” or otherwise adjusted.
My toilet (a Mansfield) has a screw that you could adjust to raise/lower the float. I had the same problem as you describe below, and was able to fix it by adjusting the height of the float. Now, the toilet is nice and quiet.
You could try http://www.familyhandyman.com/ and a few other sites like This Old House, diynetwork.com, etc. to search for toilet repair tips, and I think they will have stuff like this outlined. I found this info in a Home Depot DIY book I bought from Home Depot ~2 years ago.
Moss on roof
Q: Aside from aesthetics, what is the harm of having moss growing on my roof?
A: It reduces the lifespan of your roof.
A: It’s really easy to take care of. They sell moss-killing stuff at hardware and gardening stores. Just mix it with some water (there will be instructions for how much on the thing you buy), put it in a watering can, get up on the roof, and pour it all over the roof. A couple days later, get up on the roof with a big push broom and sweep off all the dead stuff. This should keep the moss from growing back for a couple years.
A: You can also spread some Tide with bleach (powder) right before it’s expected to rain (Costco sells big boxes). The rain will spread it out and the bleach will kill the moss within a week.
A: Just be aware if you have composite shingles that pressure washing can damage your roof and can include causing your roof to leak immediately. Most contractors believe you lose 3-5 years of life from your roof from pressure washing. If you use bleach (you don’t need Tide), make sure you don’t use more than a 1% bleach solution as this can damage your roof. If the moss is dead you can sweep it off, if not you can put zinc strips at the top of the roof and with the rain it will eventually kill off the moss. The main point is you want to keep the granules on your roof
A: Zinc strips work perfect and I’ve used them for 15 years…replace every 5 or so.
A: It reduces the lifespan of your roof.
A: It’s really easy to take care of. They sell moss-killing stuff at hardware and gardening stores. Just mix it with some water (there will be instructions for how much on the thing you buy), put it in a watering can, get up on the roof, and pour it all over the roof. A couple days later, get up on the roof with a big push broom and sweep off all the dead stuff. This should keep the moss from growing back for a couple years.
A: You can also spread some Tide with bleach (powder) right before it’s expected to rain (Costco sells big boxes). The rain will spread it out and the bleach will kill the moss within a week.
A: Just be aware if you have composite shingles that pressure washing can damage your roof and can include causing your roof to leak immediately. Most contractors believe you lose 3-5 years of life from your roof from pressure washing. If you use bleach (you don’t need Tide), make sure you don’t use more than a 1% bleach solution as this can damage your roof. If the moss is dead you can sweep it off, if not you can put zinc strips at the top of the roof and with the rain it will eventually kill off the moss. The main point is you want to keep the granules on your roof
A: Zinc strips work perfect and I’ve used them for 15 years…replace every 5 or so.
Sticky Garage Door
Q: I have a single car garage, that when I close it it sometimes activates some sort of sensor and starts moving back up. I’m pretty sure it’s not the IR beam across the entry way, but rather it’s thinking that something is under the door on its way down.
When I close the garage, and I can see that it isn’t closing smoothly and hops/jumps while it’s moving down (it will move down smoothly, then seem to stick on something, then quickly catch up to where it was supposed to be).
What is the best way to troubleshoot this problem? This started happening a few months ago, and now I need to babysit the garage when I’m closing it. I’m starting to get worried that it’s introducing too much load to the garage components (the whole motor piece attached to the roof shakes when this happens) because of the way it hops down the rails.
I’ve considered spraying WD-40 everywhere, but that seems like a shot in the dark and perhaps not addressing the root cause.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
A: With the door down, release the opener from the garage door and activate it. Make sure it moves smoothly up its track. Now that it’s out of the way (it thinks the door is open, but it isn’t), try to open the door manually. You should be able to do so with little effort, and it should move smoothly up/down. Note that it will latch into the opener mechanism again when it’s open, so you’ll have to re-release it to bring it down again. Since you’re moving the door manually, you can move it through the ‘sticky’ range and try to figure out where it’s binding. Could be that some of the bolts holding the hinge/wheel to the door are loose allowing things to get crooked and bind.
A: I have had a similar situation, with the garage door wheels (that run in the track) being the culprit. One of the wheels pops out, causing the door to open incorrectly.
I also had a garage door opening problem where the door would not complete its opening process, and the garage door motor circuit board was the culprit (I replaced it).
A: I had the same problem. I tightened the wheel bolts and it started working ok again.
When I close the garage, and I can see that it isn’t closing smoothly and hops/jumps while it’s moving down (it will move down smoothly, then seem to stick on something, then quickly catch up to where it was supposed to be).
What is the best way to troubleshoot this problem? This started happening a few months ago, and now I need to babysit the garage when I’m closing it. I’m starting to get worried that it’s introducing too much load to the garage components (the whole motor piece attached to the roof shakes when this happens) because of the way it hops down the rails.
I’ve considered spraying WD-40 everywhere, but that seems like a shot in the dark and perhaps not addressing the root cause.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
A: With the door down, release the opener from the garage door and activate it. Make sure it moves smoothly up its track. Now that it’s out of the way (it thinks the door is open, but it isn’t), try to open the door manually. You should be able to do so with little effort, and it should move smoothly up/down. Note that it will latch into the opener mechanism again when it’s open, so you’ll have to re-release it to bring it down again. Since you’re moving the door manually, you can move it through the ‘sticky’ range and try to figure out where it’s binding. Could be that some of the bolts holding the hinge/wheel to the door are loose allowing things to get crooked and bind.
A: I have had a similar situation, with the garage door wheels (that run in the track) being the culprit. One of the wheels pops out, causing the door to open incorrectly.
I also had a garage door opening problem where the door would not complete its opening process, and the garage door motor circuit board was the culprit (I replaced it).
A: I had the same problem. I tightened the wheel bolts and it started working ok again.
Leaking replacement faucet
Q: Last night I completed my second faucet replacement. There is a slight issue with this replacement where the water lines connecting to the new faucets bead water a small amount. This is happening on both lines. Tightening the lines where they connect to the faucet did not make a difference. I tried using plumbers tape around the threads without effect.
Are re-using water lines with new faucets a good practice or should they just be replaced with new ones as well?
A: How much plumbers tape are you using? You usually have to use quite a bit, I’ve seen plumbers wrap it around 10 to 20 times, depending on the size. Also if the rubber rings/gaskets are corroded, then it might be worth replacing them as well.
Q: Thanks. I am probably not applying enough of the tape to be effective in stopping the leaks. I’ll also pick up replacement lines just in case.
A: On my air tools I could only go around twice before I was no longer able to screw the connectors together far enough that I was comfortable. With the shower heads I installed it was a few more wraps (I used regular Teflon on the shower, but a thicker tape designed for gas on the air tools), but it was not anywhere near 20, probably not even 10.
Is it possible that you have bent the connectors by over tightening them?
A: I use 3 wraps with Teflon, and yes, DON”T overtighten, just enough to not leak, no more, or it starts leaking again.
A: I want to thank everyone for their guidance and input into my leaking faucet issue. I examined the existing water lines and the connectors looked a bit worn. A replacement set that was tightened by hand and now everything looks good.
Being paranoid I'm going to be checking the pan for leaks all weekend, just to be safe.
Are re-using water lines with new faucets a good practice or should they just be replaced with new ones as well?
A: How much plumbers tape are you using? You usually have to use quite a bit, I’ve seen plumbers wrap it around 10 to 20 times, depending on the size. Also if the rubber rings/gaskets are corroded, then it might be worth replacing them as well.
Q: Thanks. I am probably not applying enough of the tape to be effective in stopping the leaks. I’ll also pick up replacement lines just in case.
A: On my air tools I could only go around twice before I was no longer able to screw the connectors together far enough that I was comfortable. With the shower heads I installed it was a few more wraps (I used regular Teflon on the shower, but a thicker tape designed for gas on the air tools), but it was not anywhere near 20, probably not even 10.
Is it possible that you have bent the connectors by over tightening them?
A: I use 3 wraps with Teflon, and yes, DON”T overtighten, just enough to not leak, no more, or it starts leaking again.
A: I want to thank everyone for their guidance and input into my leaking faucet issue. I examined the existing water lines and the connectors looked a bit worn. A replacement set that was tightened by hand and now everything looks good.
Being paranoid I'm going to be checking the pan for leaks all weekend, just to be safe.
Any easy way to cut mosaic tiles ?
Q: I am working on kitchen backsplash and need to custom cut some 2” x 2” tiles. I tried a handy tile cutter from home depot that had a scoring wheel but it always got me slanted cuts and think the scoring wheel is just for show. I am currently trying with a hacksaw with a carbide cutter but that is going to take me forever to cut.
That leaves me with two options –
1. rent a tile cutter (but isn’t that for bigger tiles) ?
2. Get carbide reciprocating saw blades (I already have the saw)
Does anyone have a better method ?
A: 1. Home Depot rents two sizes of tile saws: large and small. The small tile saw is for tile up to 6 inches or so.
2. An angle cutter with a diamond blade works really nice.
3. If these are not floor tiles, a Dremel with a tile bit works very very well.
Options 2 and 3 are best if you’re doing curves, but option 1 is hands down the best for doing straight cuts; no dust, no fracturing, all goodness.
A: The small ones are pretty cheap – we just bought one for $80. Saves you “rushing” to return a rental – you just don’t want to rush when cutting tiles…
A: And if you’re really bored, $200 at Harbor Freight buys you a bridge tile saw with a 25” cutting capacity (18” floor tiles on point, chiropractor cost not included).
You didn’t specify what kinds of tiles these are: stone, glass, or ceramic. (Since you’re trying a scoring wheel cutter, I assume ceramic.) The wet saw tile cutters (e.g. the ones you might rent) will work for stone and ceramic tile quite handsomely, with far better accuracy than the scoring type. You’d need a different blade on them for glass, if you do lots of glass.
A: Related question – I have a tile wains coat on my back wall in my bathroom that goes up about 38” – I need to mount a sink and need the tile to stop at about 30” above the floor. It’s a pretty small section. Is it possible to cut tile off with a saw if it’s already cemented to the wall? Or am I better off ripping down the tile and installing new tile? Thanks!
A: Try cutting it off and see how it goes – worst case is you rip it down and install new tile.
A: I used one of these with a diamond blade and it worked great. Just keep a steady hand and the air generally moist (I had someone with a spray bottle of water help me). As Fab said, worst case is you mess up, rip it down and install new stuff.
A: Helps if I post the link, eh?
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=149
A: You could also consider a dremel with a diamond blade. It will be a lot slower but considerably less likely to break tiles.
Note that if you have to tear down the tiles, you will likely have to replace the wallboard/backer board before you put up new tiles.
That leaves me with two options –
1. rent a tile cutter (but isn’t that for bigger tiles) ?
2. Get carbide reciprocating saw blades (I already have the saw)
Does anyone have a better method ?
A: 1. Home Depot rents two sizes of tile saws: large and small. The small tile saw is for tile up to 6 inches or so.
2. An angle cutter with a diamond blade works really nice.
3. If these are not floor tiles, a Dremel with a tile bit works very very well.
Options 2 and 3 are best if you’re doing curves, but option 1 is hands down the best for doing straight cuts; no dust, no fracturing, all goodness.
A: The small ones are pretty cheap – we just bought one for $80. Saves you “rushing” to return a rental – you just don’t want to rush when cutting tiles…
A: And if you’re really bored, $200 at Harbor Freight buys you a bridge tile saw with a 25” cutting capacity (18” floor tiles on point, chiropractor cost not included).
You didn’t specify what kinds of tiles these are: stone, glass, or ceramic. (Since you’re trying a scoring wheel cutter, I assume ceramic.) The wet saw tile cutters (e.g. the ones you might rent) will work for stone and ceramic tile quite handsomely, with far better accuracy than the scoring type. You’d need a different blade on them for glass, if you do lots of glass.
A: Related question – I have a tile wains coat on my back wall in my bathroom that goes up about 38” – I need to mount a sink and need the tile to stop at about 30” above the floor. It’s a pretty small section. Is it possible to cut tile off with a saw if it’s already cemented to the wall? Or am I better off ripping down the tile and installing new tile? Thanks!
A: Try cutting it off and see how it goes – worst case is you rip it down and install new tile.
A: I used one of these with a diamond blade and it worked great. Just keep a steady hand and the air generally moist (I had someone with a spray bottle of water help me). As Fab said, worst case is you mess up, rip it down and install new stuff.
A: Helps if I post the link, eh?
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=149
A: You could also consider a dremel with a diamond blade. It will be a lot slower but considerably less likely to break tiles.
Note that if you have to tear down the tiles, you will likely have to replace the wallboard/backer board before you put up new tiles.
Fixing hardwood floors
Q: Short of replacing with new wooden strips, is there a way to fix dents and holes (from heavy furniture movement) in hardwood floors?
A: For dents, I remember (from somewhere) that it "may" be possible to use an iron to steam out the dent. I have never actually tried this. For "holes" (as in nail hole?), I assume standard wood patching would work for small holes.
The other solution is to drill out the bad spot and replace with a matching sized piece of wood. I recommend matching the stain before inserting the new piece.
And there is always a rug.
A: Depends... If they aren't too deep and the floor has enough thickness, you may be able to sand them out.
But lots of people (me included) consider that to be "character". It's also true that if it's happened before, it will likely happen again...
A: I had a significant amount of pre-finished ½” bellawood hardwood installed in late May. The installer botched the installation and now I have two issues:
1. A nasty rise where the boards popped free of their nails, or were not nailed to begin with (his crew was “nailing” without nails in their gun for a little while – we already fixed on other such spot). This one’s pretty easy to resolve.
2. Numerous locations in the house where the boards are always settling – walk over the spot and all the boards shift, resulting in a sound like a string of firecrackers. Leave the room and wait a few minutes and the boards shift back, resulting in another string of firecrackers.
The installer (Igor Kochnev of PK Flooring) has disappeared and has not resolved issue #1 above, and based on the other problems we had with his installation I’ve got to attribute #2 to his installation as well. I won’t use him to resolve this issue, even if I could get a hold of him or get him to return my calls. Consider this a hearty disrecommendation for Igor.
However – does anyone have thoughts on #2 above? I need to get a qualified hardwood person out (any recommendations?), but I’m wondering if I’ll wind up needing to sand the floor down, top-nail everything, and then refinish it. Or maybe not - perhaps it sounds like a subfloor issue, or something else?
Snap. Crackle. Pop.
A: They make special screws designed to snap off when driven in to correct this type of problem. You drive the screw in and the head snaps off below the surface. Putty the hole.
Or depending on your access you could screw the floor from below.
A: For dents, I remember (from somewhere) that it "may" be possible to use an iron to steam out the dent. I have never actually tried this. For "holes" (as in nail hole?), I assume standard wood patching would work for small holes.
The other solution is to drill out the bad spot and replace with a matching sized piece of wood. I recommend matching the stain before inserting the new piece.
And there is always a rug.
A: Depends... If they aren't too deep and the floor has enough thickness, you may be able to sand them out.
But lots of people (me included) consider that to be "character". It's also true that if it's happened before, it will likely happen again...
A: I had a significant amount of pre-finished ½” bellawood hardwood installed in late May. The installer botched the installation and now I have two issues:
1. A nasty rise where the boards popped free of their nails, or were not nailed to begin with (his crew was “nailing” without nails in their gun for a little while – we already fixed on other such spot). This one’s pretty easy to resolve.
2. Numerous locations in the house where the boards are always settling – walk over the spot and all the boards shift, resulting in a sound like a string of firecrackers. Leave the room and wait a few minutes and the boards shift back, resulting in another string of firecrackers.
The installer (Igor Kochnev of PK Flooring) has disappeared and has not resolved issue #1 above, and based on the other problems we had with his installation I’ve got to attribute #2 to his installation as well. I won’t use him to resolve this issue, even if I could get a hold of him or get him to return my calls. Consider this a hearty disrecommendation for Igor.
However – does anyone have thoughts on #2 above? I need to get a qualified hardwood person out (any recommendations?), but I’m wondering if I’ll wind up needing to sand the floor down, top-nail everything, and then refinish it. Or maybe not - perhaps it sounds like a subfloor issue, or something else?
Snap. Crackle. Pop.
A: They make special screws designed to snap off when driven in to correct this type of problem. You drive the screw in and the head snaps off below the surface. Putty the hole.
Or depending on your access you could screw the floor from below.
Hot Water Heater - Fan won't stop blowing, no hot water
Q: It's a brand new hot water heater. As of this morning, the blower's been on constantly, but there's no hot water. We haven't changed any settings, the timer's unchanged from its defaults, and since our home is new construction, it's only been used for about 3 months.
Any suggestions? I don't have any experience with these, so I'm going to call the installer, but it would be nice if it were something easy.
A: I assume the unit is a gas water heater. Sounds like gas is not flowing which would indicate a failure in the electronics (safety feature) assuming your gas line wasn't turned off. For gas heaters, I recommend only trained service personnel to work on it.
Any suggestions? I don't have any experience with these, so I'm going to call the installer, but it would be nice if it were something easy.
A: I assume the unit is a gas water heater. Sounds like gas is not flowing which would indicate a failure in the electronics (safety feature) assuming your gas line wasn't turned off. For gas heaters, I recommend only trained service personnel to work on it.
Choose Rangehood
Q: I am wondering if someone would recommend a range hood that is 1) powerful (esp for Chinese cooking) 2) easy to clean and maintain and 3) durable? Also, where can I buy installation service?
A: We bought a Zephyr range hood about 3 years ago similar to this one:
http://www.homeclick.com/1/1/14464-zephyr-30-hurricane-range-hood-ak2500.html
It’s fairly powerful (it has a 3-speed fan) and cleanup is easy. We bought ours at Crossroads Appliance, and they did the installation.
A: +1 for Zephyr. I have it and we love it.
A: Ok some links may help:
http://www.broan.com/display/router.asp?CategoryID=618
See, this is interior model (blower inside)
http://www.broan.com/display/router.asp?ProductID=100529
And this is exterior version: (requires the external/roof-top blower in the first link above)
http://www.broan.com/display/router.asp?ProductID=100059
There apparently now is an “inline” version of blower as well. Personally I’d put a high powered external one than to have that noise in the middle of the kitchen. I’m not sure about the “difference” in suction capability but we’re happy with the 36” Broan that we have (the EX model)..
A: Just moved into my new home and got a Zephyr Tempest I (http://www.zephyronline.com/#page=essentials/27/18) put in. It provides the best esthetics vs. functionality that we could find… 650CFM and works great with Chinese cooking, now if only my cooktop did it justice
Fredericks Appliance in Redmond (http://www.fredericksappliance.com/) did the install and was able to get me a great price, there is also a Microsoft prime thing where the warranty on the unit is extended for 1 year. I worked with Luke in their sales team for this.
A: I have a 600cfm Vent-A-Hood (http://www.ventahood.com/hoodmodels.jsp?id=9) from Crossroads Appliance, and we love it – VERY easy to clean. They coat the parts with some sort of super waxy paint, and the box that traps the grease just unsnaps from the unit. Put it in the sink with some hot water, and it pretty much washes itself. They call it the “Magic Lung” (http://www.ventahood.com/magiclung.jsp)
I have used it almost daily for over 2 years and have never had any reason to think about heat loss. Maybe the hot stove / oven underneath is compensating for that. :)
A: Not sure about heat recovery – the house stays pretty toasty regardless. As Dan said, it’s probably the cooking that compensates for it. We looked into Vent-A-Hood as well, innovative design, and did look very easy to clean, but we didn’t have the vertical height for it. The Tempest is pretty easy to clean as well but not as easy as the Vent-A-hood, you just have to put the stainless steel filters into the dishwashers every couple of months.
A: We have a GE hood and like it a lot… 600CFM, 4 speed, 2 lights.
http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SPECPAGE&SKU=JV936DSS&SITEID=GEA
Cleaning: Although the mesh/grill that traps the grease just unsnaps, there are other areas under the hood that do accumulate grease over time and need to be cleaned. Cleaning those sections is a little more time consuming since they are not easily removable parts and need to be cleaned in-place.
It looks great though :-)
A: One additional consideration I don’t think I saw mentioned below is to look at the sound level (measured in Sones). It seems like you usually have to look at the spec sheets for each range hood you’re considering to find that information. (ex. - http://www.broan.com/ImageLibrary/broan/pdf/Specifications/99043473.pdf) When I bought a hood ~2years ago I found that some of the more expensive hoods were just as loud as the cheaper hoods even if the range hoods’ CFMs were the same.
A: Also, in our case I think we went “overboard” on power and that creates an effect where it actually disrupts the air-flow in the fire-place, causing the smoke alarm to go off sometimes. To remedy that, we usually leave a window near the range hood slightly opened to keep the pressure balanced.
Also, when talking CFM, keep in mind that the actual air displacement drops drastically as you add piping to the outside.
A: We bought a Zephyr range hood about 3 years ago similar to this one:
http://www.homeclick.com/1/1/14464-zephyr-30-hurricane-range-hood-ak2500.html
It’s fairly powerful (it has a 3-speed fan) and cleanup is easy. We bought ours at Crossroads Appliance, and they did the installation.
A: +1 for Zephyr. I have it and we love it.
A: Ok some links may help:
http://www.broan.com/display/router.asp?CategoryID=618
See, this is interior model (blower inside)
http://www.broan.com/display/router.asp?ProductID=100529
And this is exterior version: (requires the external/roof-top blower in the first link above)
http://www.broan.com/display/router.asp?ProductID=100059
There apparently now is an “inline” version of blower as well. Personally I’d put a high powered external one than to have that noise in the middle of the kitchen. I’m not sure about the “difference” in suction capability but we’re happy with the 36” Broan that we have (the EX model)..
A: Just moved into my new home and got a Zephyr Tempest I (http://www.zephyronline.com/#page=essentials/27/18) put in. It provides the best esthetics vs. functionality that we could find… 650CFM and works great with Chinese cooking, now if only my cooktop did it justice
Fredericks Appliance in Redmond (http://www.fredericksappliance.com/) did the install and was able to get me a great price, there is also a Microsoft prime thing where the warranty on the unit is extended for 1 year. I worked with Luke in their sales team for this.
A: I have a 600cfm Vent-A-Hood (http://www.ventahood.com/hoodmodels.jsp?id=9) from Crossroads Appliance, and we love it – VERY easy to clean. They coat the parts with some sort of super waxy paint, and the box that traps the grease just unsnaps from the unit. Put it in the sink with some hot water, and it pretty much washes itself. They call it the “Magic Lung” (http://www.ventahood.com/magiclung.jsp)
I have used it almost daily for over 2 years and have never had any reason to think about heat loss. Maybe the hot stove / oven underneath is compensating for that. :)
A: Not sure about heat recovery – the house stays pretty toasty regardless. As Dan said, it’s probably the cooking that compensates for it. We looked into Vent-A-Hood as well, innovative design, and did look very easy to clean, but we didn’t have the vertical height for it. The Tempest is pretty easy to clean as well but not as easy as the Vent-A-hood, you just have to put the stainless steel filters into the dishwashers every couple of months.
A: We have a GE hood and like it a lot… 600CFM, 4 speed, 2 lights.
http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SPECPAGE&SKU=JV936DSS&SITEID=GEA
Cleaning: Although the mesh/grill that traps the grease just unsnaps, there are other areas under the hood that do accumulate grease over time and need to be cleaned. Cleaning those sections is a little more time consuming since they are not easily removable parts and need to be cleaned in-place.
It looks great though :-)
A: One additional consideration I don’t think I saw mentioned below is to look at the sound level (measured in Sones). It seems like you usually have to look at the spec sheets for each range hood you’re considering to find that information. (ex. - http://www.broan.com/ImageLibrary/broan/pdf/Specifications/99043473.pdf) When I bought a hood ~2years ago I found that some of the more expensive hoods were just as loud as the cheaper hoods even if the range hoods’ CFMs were the same.
A: Also, in our case I think we went “overboard” on power and that creates an effect where it actually disrupts the air-flow in the fire-place, causing the smoke alarm to go off sometimes. To remedy that, we usually leave a window near the range hood slightly opened to keep the pressure balanced.
Also, when talking CFM, keep in mind that the actual air displacement drops drastically as you add piping to the outside.
Washer, Dryer and Fridge Brand Recommendations
Q: I am looking for recommendations for good washer/dryer and fridge brands that are not too expensive and that you are happy with.
A: I think most of the Appliances Companies (i.e KitchenAid, Whrilpool, GE, Frigidaire) have good products starting from Less to High end as per their options. New appliances lasts easily for more than 5 Years or more as per usage. I always used Whrilpool for my Washer Dryer and they are awesome in all mean and fits my Wife needs J (She is the main user) and Whrilpools are in mid range from pricing not too high not too low and comes with the best options used by most people.
A: Don’t forget to take into account the lifetime cost of the appliances. Paying 500 dollars for a refrigerator that will use 2000 dollars worth of power over it’s lifetime is more expensive in total that a 900 dollar model that uses 1200 dollars worth of power over it’s lifetime. These are all estimations, but I think the point is made.
A: My fridge is an Armanaand while I don’t hate it, nothing about it makes me go “YOU GOTTA BUY THIS!”.
My Washer & Dryer however we love love love. We have the Bosch Nexxt set. Some people may think its overpriced, but we have had 0 problems, and with two kids it easily gets used enough to have exposed something if it shoddy.
A: +1 on the Bosch washer. A nice thing about it is that it uses very little water, since they are front-loading.
They also remove nearly all the water from the clothes in the spin cycle, so you use less energy drying the clothes. That will help pay for the higher initial cost of the washer.
A problem we’ve had with ours is that since it’s a front-loader, the door has to seal tightly. If you don’t let the door stand open for a while between loads, then the residual moisture can’t get out, and we’ve seen a little mildew around the door gasket.
A: Yes you need to leave the doors open on front loaders (and preferably dry around/under the rubber gasket/seal at the end of a load). We got an LG Steamwash front loader back in May and its been great – as you say the clothes come out nearly dry.
A: +1 on the Bosch Nexxt. Expensive but I don’t regret it. Whisper-quiet washer, gets all the water out; dryer is done before you know it. Excellent capacity (I have the 500 series).
Only complaints:
· Can’t disable the beeping when washer is done, and it’s a bit obnoxious in my opinion (would prefer a gentle chime). It does get my butt off the couch to throw stuff in the dryer, that’s for sure.
· Almost immediately, washer door stopped closing tightly if I just let it swing shut. When you start the washer it locks the door but if the door isn’t fully closed, it makes a “grunk grunk grunk” sound when it tries to grab the door hook, and errors out. I have to press on the door while pushing the start button. This is not as scary as it sounds, but a little annoying.
I always leave the washer door cracked open (maybe that’s why it doesn’t swing 100% shut?) so have not had any mildew problem.
A: I think most of the Appliances Companies (i.e KitchenAid, Whrilpool, GE, Frigidaire) have good products starting from Less to High end as per their options. New appliances lasts easily for more than 5 Years or more as per usage. I always used Whrilpool for my Washer Dryer and they are awesome in all mean and fits my Wife needs J (She is the main user) and Whrilpools are in mid range from pricing not too high not too low and comes with the best options used by most people.
A: Don’t forget to take into account the lifetime cost of the appliances. Paying 500 dollars for a refrigerator that will use 2000 dollars worth of power over it’s lifetime is more expensive in total that a 900 dollar model that uses 1200 dollars worth of power over it’s lifetime. These are all estimations, but I think the point is made.
A: My fridge is an Armana
My Washer & Dryer however we love love love. We have the Bosch Nexxt set. Some people may think its overpriced, but we have had 0 problems, and with two kids it easily gets used enough to have exposed something if it shoddy.
A: +1 on the Bosch washer. A nice thing about it is that it uses very little water, since they are front-loading.
They also remove nearly all the water from the clothes in the spin cycle, so you use less energy drying the clothes. That will help pay for the higher initial cost of the washer.
A problem we’ve had with ours is that since it’s a front-loader, the door has to seal tightly. If you don’t let the door stand open for a while between loads, then the residual moisture can’t get out, and we’ve seen a little mildew around the door gasket.
A: Yes you need to leave the doors open on front loaders (and preferably dry around/under the rubber gasket/seal at the end of a load). We got an LG Steamwash front loader back in May and its been great – as you say the clothes come out nearly dry.
A: +1 on the Bosch Nexxt. Expensive but I don’t regret it. Whisper-quiet washer, gets all the water out; dryer is done before you know it. Excellent capacity (I have the 500 series).
Only complaints:
· Can’t disable the beeping when washer is done, and it’s a bit obnoxious in my opinion (would prefer a gentle chime). It does get my butt off the couch to throw stuff in the dryer, that’s for sure.
· Almost immediately, washer door stopped closing tightly if I just let it swing shut. When you start the washer it locks the door but if the door isn’t fully closed, it makes a “grunk grunk grunk” sound when it tries to grab the door hook, and errors out. I have to press on the door while pushing the start button. This is not as scary as it sounds, but a little annoying.
I always leave the washer door cracked open (maybe that’s why it doesn’t swing 100% shut?) so have not had any mildew problem.
Permanent Furnace Filters
Q: I’m looking to replace the disposable filters in my furnace with a permanent washable filter.
Anyone have any recommendations of filters and/or online stores that sell them? The dimensions I need are 16”x20”.
A: I purchased mine at Lowes or Home Depot. Not sure how well they work compared to the disposable ones. I have an odd-shaped intake that regular filters didn’t fit.
A: I had my filter replaced with one of those electronic filters (Trane brand) and love it. I notice less dust in my house. I was skeptical that it would make that much difference but it really does seem to keep the air cleaner and do a better job than regular filters. Expensive, but I think worth it now that I have it and have noticed a difference.
A: The only downside I’ve found to the electrostatic filters is that they do generate ozone. Most people don’t notice it or care, but some people can be sensitive to it and get headaches. I never was able to find a published acceptable limit on ozone levels in interior living spaces.
I have had a Honeywell electronic filter installed and love it. Given all the dust on the elements (simple to clean), it is working rather well. Almost 14 years and never a problem.
A: The levels of ozone you’ll get out of one of these mounted filter things is wayyy less than you’ll get out of a portable air thing, like those fans they sell at Sharper Image. Those things dump ozone like there is no tomorrow, and are the things that are most likely to make people feel blah.
Anyone have any recommendations of filters and/or online stores that sell them? The dimensions I need are 16”x20”.
A: I purchased mine at Lowes or Home Depot. Not sure how well they work compared to the disposable ones. I have an odd-shaped intake that regular filters didn’t fit.
A: I had my filter replaced with one of those electronic filters (Trane brand) and love it. I notice less dust in my house. I was skeptical that it would make that much difference but it really does seem to keep the air cleaner and do a better job than regular filters. Expensive, but I think worth it now that I have it and have noticed a difference.
A: The only downside I’ve found to the electrostatic filters is that they do generate ozone. Most people don’t notice it or care, but some people can be sensitive to it and get headaches. I never was able to find a published acceptable limit on ozone levels in interior living spaces.
I have had a Honeywell electronic filter installed and love it. Given all the dust on the elements (simple to clean), it is working rather well. Almost 14 years and never a problem.
A: The levels of ozone you’ll get out of one of these mounted filter things is wayyy less than you’ll get out of a portable air thing, like those fans they sell at Sharper Image. Those things dump ozone like there is no tomorrow, and are the things that are most likely to make people feel blah.
Furnace Trane XE 80 not firing up
Q: This morning I foud my heater is not blowing hot air. Thermostat kicks it on, I hear a fan starts spinning. I then hear a few clicking sounds (relay switch type) and furnace does not fire up. After 1 minute the fan stops. The loop start again after a few seconds. I have looked at the controller inside the furnace. It's status says "normal. call for heat". Any idea why furnace is not firing up?
pls r me also.
A: Sounds like the igniter isn’t working. That’s what was broken in ours last time, it ended up being a quick but expensive part to replace.
A: That is also my guess. I had opened covers and let it run in the next trial. Unfortunately, this time igniter glowed on and furnace started. I was not able to determine if igniter failed in previous attempts. Anyway I will look closely when it fails next time.
Is ceramic igniter expensive? It looked like an easy part to pull out. Why was it expensive?
A: I have no idea why the part was expensive, maybe it is made out of adamantium ;)
A: A few years back I had the same thing happen during a bad snowstorm and went without heat for a few days before paying someone too much for a $27 part and 15 minutes of labor.
You can buy the parts online (just look up the model number of your furnace and/or pull your igniter and get the part number off and search on it). I’ve had to replace a bad igniter myself since then (bad igniter Karma I guess). Just make sure to cut the power to your furnace first. Takes about 15 minutes to replace it and it’s worth knowing how.
A: One of the people I had out doing an estimate for furnace replacement touched on this subject (ceramic glowplugs) – his claim was that the part is easy to replace but difficult for a homeowner to order, so you have to go through a heating company and have them order the part and replace it and you get a nice labor charge. He also mentioned a newer type of glowplug being used more recently that doesn’t have the cracking issues the ceramic ones do.
I’m having a Trane installed in about two weeks – here’s hoping for the best!
pls r me also.
A: Sounds like the igniter isn’t working. That’s what was broken in ours last time, it ended up being a quick but expensive part to replace.
A: That is also my guess. I had opened covers and let it run in the next trial. Unfortunately, this time igniter glowed on and furnace started. I was not able to determine if igniter failed in previous attempts. Anyway I will look closely when it fails next time.
Is ceramic igniter expensive? It looked like an easy part to pull out. Why was it expensive?
A: I have no idea why the part was expensive, maybe it is made out of adamantium ;)
A: A few years back I had the same thing happen during a bad snowstorm and went without heat for a few days before paying someone too much for a $27 part and 15 minutes of labor.
You can buy the parts online (just look up the model number of your furnace and/or pull your igniter and get the part number off and search on it). I’ve had to replace a bad igniter myself since then (bad igniter Karma I guess). Just make sure to cut the power to your furnace first. Takes about 15 minutes to replace it and it’s worth knowing how.
A: One of the people I had out doing an estimate for furnace replacement touched on this subject (ceramic glowplugs) – his claim was that the part is easy to replace but difficult for a homeowner to order, so you have to go through a heating company and have them order the part and replace it and you get a nice labor charge. He also mentioned a newer type of glowplug being used more recently that doesn’t have the cracking issues the ceramic ones do.
I’m having a Trane installed in about two weeks – here’s hoping for the best!
Hardwood floor cleaning
Q: I am trying to clean my hardwood and heard that not to use just plain water and soap. Do you have any reco for a good hardwood cleaning kit? Possibly like a spray so I can just spray and mop? Thanks!
A: Very light solution of water and vinegar. Mop with a very squeezed rag.
Clean as soon as possible stains/drops. The issue with hardwood is not the nature of the drop, but how long it stays on it. Even milk can be very damaging if left there for too long.
Those are the tips I got from the contractor who installed my hardwood, and so far so good.
Q: How many % water and % vinegar?
A: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/floor-care-101?lnc=14083a7d172ee010VgnVCM1000003d370a0aRCRD&rsc=dl_subsections_home_housekeeping#
Martha recommends 4:1 water:vinegar.
A: Even less, maybe 6:1. Vinegar is acid after all, the finish might suffer a bit.
A: Very light solution of water and vinegar. Mop with a very squeezed rag.
Clean as soon as possible stains/drops. The issue with hardwood is not the nature of the drop, but how long it stays on it. Even milk can be very damaging if left there for too long.
Those are the tips I got from the contractor who installed my hardwood, and so far so good.
Q: How many % water and % vinegar?
A: http://www.marthastewart.com/article/floor-care-101?lnc=14083a7d172ee010VgnVCM1000003d370a0aRCRD&rsc=dl_subsections_home_housekeeping#
Martha recommends 4:1 water:vinegar.
A: Even less, maybe 6:1. Vinegar is acid after all, the finish might suffer a bit.
Replacing chandelier
Q: We would like to replace our entryway and dining area chandelier and were looking for some references. The estimates that I got so far range around $350 (installation cost) . Is is reasonable? Our ceilings are 12' and 8' high .
Also on the similar note, can I mix a contemporary and a traditional chandelier in a split level house at entry and dining area?
A: Installation should take an hour at most for both chandeliers. Whether that’s worth $350 is a personal decision – I personally would never pay that, but I’m a pretty hard core do it yourselfer.
A: We’ve got a more modern one in the dining room (where the ceilings are 8’ and I could replace myself) – and a more classical one just off that in the entry way that we haven’t gotten around to changing yet (16’ ceilings – not willing to do electrical work on that high of a ladder J) It looks ok today.
As someone that is somewhat afraid of heights – I recognize that I will pay for that at some point.
A: You can combine whatever things you want, its your house! “Contemporary” and “Traditional” should be able to go together just fine. Something like a modern aluminum and halogen beam chandelier and a classic tiffany chandelier might be a more difficult match, but if that is how you put your house together there is probably a way to make it work.
As far as $350, that sure does seem like a lot to swap a light. Are these lights particularly big? Chandeliers come in lots of different sizes and weights. If it is really big and heavy it may be worth it to pay someone. I put a heavy ceiling fan up one time and it was a little tricky, a month ago I put up a really small light (4 halogen spotlights on a ~12x12 square plate) which was close to impossible to install because of how the wires and screws were arranged. That was extremely frustrating (I actually dropped it once, thank goodness I always wrap the ground wire really good first otherwise it would have destroyed something) but not worth 300. At the end of the day there are 3 color coded wires that you screw together, and a couple of bolts that hold the thing up, so the actual ‘how’ to do it is really easy.
Now the most recent chandelier I put up… I had to fabricate a mounting bracket because the one it came with wasn’t capable of orienting the light correctly (it is rectangular, so direction matters). The amount of work that took I would have happily given someone $200 to deal with it.
So, summary? No one can tell you if it is worth the price except for you.
Also on the similar note, can I mix a contemporary and a traditional chandelier in a split level house at entry and dining area?
A: Installation should take an hour at most for both chandeliers. Whether that’s worth $350 is a personal decision – I personally would never pay that, but I’m a pretty hard core do it yourselfer.
A: We’ve got a more modern one in the dining room (where the ceilings are 8’ and I could replace myself) – and a more classical one just off that in the entry way that we haven’t gotten around to changing yet (16’ ceilings – not willing to do electrical work on that high of a ladder J) It looks ok today.
As someone that is somewhat afraid of heights – I recognize that I will pay for that at some point.
A: You can combine whatever things you want, its your house! “Contemporary” and “Traditional” should be able to go together just fine. Something like a modern aluminum and halogen beam chandelier and a classic tiffany chandelier might be a more difficult match, but if that is how you put your house together there is probably a way to make it work.
As far as $350, that sure does seem like a lot to swap a light. Are these lights particularly big? Chandeliers come in lots of different sizes and weights. If it is really big and heavy it may be worth it to pay someone. I put a heavy ceiling fan up one time and it was a little tricky, a month ago I put up a really small light (4 halogen spotlights on a ~12x12 square plate) which was close to impossible to install because of how the wires and screws were arranged. That was extremely frustrating (I actually dropped it once, thank goodness I always wrap the ground wire really good first otherwise it would have destroyed something) but not worth 300. At the end of the day there are 3 color coded wires that you screw together, and a couple of bolts that hold the thing up, so the actual ‘how’ to do it is really easy.
Now the most recent chandelier I put up… I had to fabricate a mounting bracket because the one it came with wasn’t capable of orienting the light correctly (it is rectangular, so direction matters). The amount of work that took I would have happily given someone $200 to deal with it.
So, summary? No one can tell you if it is worth the price except for you.
How can I determine the amount of insulation in a wall...
Q: …without tearing the wall open. Is there a device to do this?
A: You can make an educated guess. I don’t know of a device
A 2x4 wall will usually have R-13 if anything. (No idea how old the house is). You can take the cover off of an outlet and see if you can pull some out from the gap between the drywall and the box. A phone jack would work best as they’re often installed in just rings and not full boxes. There could be some more exotic insulation (i.e. the sprayed in expanding foam) that would be more difficult to track down the actual R-value.
Then you need to figure out if the house was sheeted with foam that could provide more insulating value…
A: You can make an educated guess. I don’t know of a device
A 2x4 wall will usually have R-13 if anything. (No idea how old the house is). You can take the cover off of an outlet and see if you can pull some out from the gap between the drywall and the box. A phone jack would work best as they’re often installed in just rings and not full boxes. There could be some more exotic insulation (i.e. the sprayed in expanding foam) that would be more difficult to track down the actual R-value.
Then you need to figure out if the house was sheeted with foam that could provide more insulating value…
Blowing Insulation into attic
Q: I'm looking into blowing insulation into attic. I think that Home Depot blown insulation come out to about 40 cents per square foot for R-38. I also had a quote from a professional that is $1/square foot. Does this sound right (want to make sure I'm comparing apples to apples)?
In addition I was reading some instructions on how to blow, and it said to keep the machine _outside_, however I don't think that's possible for me to blow into my attic. Is it OK to run these machines indoors? (the one from Home Depot in particular)
Any tips or advice?
A: When I looked into doing my house, the cost difference between doing it myself and paying somebody was minimal since the pros buy in such big quantities.
You also need somebody to install the appropriate baffles at the eaves so that the vents don’t get blocked, and you should also consider whether there are any open air paths into the attic that need to be sealed.
I was happy to spend the money to have somebody else do it.
Q: I want this crap OUT of my house. I sucked a some out myself when I remodeled my kitchen, but I would not mind getting it ALL out and replaced with something better. (And I do NOT want to do it myself, that stuff is super nasty.)
Any idea on how much it would cost to first SUCK out all the old blown in stuff? The insulation in my attic is super super nasty stuff. It’s this burnt amber color, smells horrible, and if you happen to get a taste, very very acidic tasing. The inspector said it looks like cedar shreddings soaked in formaldrahyde. And in the summer, it can acquire a smell that is not pleasant.
A: I think I would ask an insulation contractor about that. My guess is that it wouldn’t be that pricey to suck it out, but there might be some disposal cost.
A: You might want to call “Clean Crawls” (http://www.cleancrawl.com/). My wife and I have hired them to do our attic, (their field rep, Jay, was very knowledgeable). Additionally, if you have Puget Sound Energy supplying your electricity, you are eligible for rebates on attic insulation, (we saved about $400).
However, we have only 455 sq. ft. of attic, and that is small because of the shape of our roof; in most houses the attic will equal the square footage of an entire floor, (I figure we saved on our materials cost, but labor, machine set up time, etc. will probably be pretty much the same for everyone).
A: CleanCrawl
Eastside exterminators (they also do insulation work)
And there is another one in the prime card site
A: Did you then have someone install rolled / paperbacked / whatever its called insulation sheets, or did you just blow something new in? I’d love if I had the clean rolled stuff in my attic, it would make it a lot easier to get around up there compared to the loose fiberglas that it currently contains.
A: I think “batt insulation” is the term you’re looking for.
Blown in cellulose is considerable better at insulating than fiberglass. Not only does it fill around uneven shapes (which batts don’t do), but it acts as an air barrier, which is something fiberglass doesn’t do.
It’s also cheaper, and you can work in an attic with it (I understand your opinion about loose fiberglass).
A: Ahh, yes I remember hearing about the cellulose on this list before. Based on how the joists in our attic are I won’t be converting it in to storage space, but I do get up around there to pull wires so it may be a decent option. It would have the same ‘compaction’ problem when I’m walking around trying to find my footing on the hidden beams though - I have tons of spots in my attic where the insulation is really thin from me standing. Is cellulose more robust against that? (I imagine just being able to fluff it up with my hands would be a big benefit over the fiberglass anyway)
A: I had cellulose insulation blown in to the level of the top of the joists. Then I took the jeans-based insulation from Seattle Environmental Homecenter and laid it on top of the joists myself. I’m figuring I’ll need to pull up and re-install those jeans bats when I run new wiring and I didn’t want to have to wade through cellulose covering all the joists.
A: Yeah, I put in a whole-house fan last spring and had the same issue.
You do get compaction, but it seems to me that it’s not as bad because the cellulose is considerably more dense to start with and it’s easy to move it around when you’re done. I take a small dustpan up and use it to scoop the insulation to the sides and then back when I’m done, and that works well for me.
A: A leaf rake works wonders when spreading out blown insulation or moving the fibreglass kind into the hard to reach places.
A: It was about 5 years ago, so I don’t remember who did the work, but it was pretty simple and they did a nice job. All the good installers have a truck-mounted blower, which is quieter (in the house) and moves the product more quickly and with less mess.
The concerns are:
1) Seal any holes up beforehand (I had a cavity from the second floor that was open into the attic and would have take around 20 cu ft of insulation to fill, so I had them seal that up ahead of time
2) If you have skylights, the shafts need to be insulated separately with fiberglass batts
3) You need baffles at the eaves to provide airflow.
4) Recessed lights need to be handled properly. Older housings need to have some airspace between them and the insulation – there are baffles you can get to cover them, and sometimes installers just use open cylinders of flashing to keep the insulation off them. You will definitely lose heat through those kinds of housings, and if you cover them there is heat/fire hazard.
Newer housings (which have IC (Insulation contact) on their label someplace) can have the insulation right up next to them.
5) Attic access covers need to be well handled, and it bit of a pain to get them to seal well. Mine has fiberglass around it so that you don’t get a shower of cellulose every time you open it.
My one regret is that I didn’t have them put in more depth – I have about 8”, and I would be happier if I’d paid a little more for an extra 4” of insulation.
In addition I was reading some instructions on how to blow, and it said to keep the machine _outside_, however I don't think that's possible for me to blow into my attic. Is it OK to run these machines indoors? (the one from Home Depot in particular)
Any tips or advice?
A: When I looked into doing my house, the cost difference between doing it myself and paying somebody was minimal since the pros buy in such big quantities.
You also need somebody to install the appropriate baffles at the eaves so that the vents don’t get blocked, and you should also consider whether there are any open air paths into the attic that need to be sealed.
I was happy to spend the money to have somebody else do it.
Q: I want this crap OUT of my house. I sucked a some out myself when I remodeled my kitchen, but I would not mind getting it ALL out and replaced with something better. (And I do NOT want to do it myself, that stuff is super nasty.)
Any idea on how much it would cost to first SUCK out all the old blown in stuff? The insulation in my attic is super super nasty stuff. It’s this burnt amber color, smells horrible, and if you happen to get a taste, very very acidic tasing. The inspector said it looks like cedar shreddings soaked in formaldrahyde. And in the summer, it can acquire a smell that is not pleasant.
A: I think I would ask an insulation contractor about that. My guess is that it wouldn’t be that pricey to suck it out, but there might be some disposal cost.
A: You might want to call “Clean Crawls” (http://www.cleancrawl.com/). My wife and I have hired them to do our attic, (their field rep, Jay, was very knowledgeable). Additionally, if you have Puget Sound Energy supplying your electricity, you are eligible for rebates on attic insulation, (we saved about $400).
However, we have only 455 sq. ft. of attic, and that is small because of the shape of our roof; in most houses the attic will equal the square footage of an entire floor, (I figure we saved on our materials cost, but labor, machine set up time, etc. will probably be pretty much the same for everyone).
A: CleanCrawl
Eastside exterminators (they also do insulation work)
And there is another one in the prime card site
A: Did you then have someone install rolled / paperbacked / whatever its called insulation sheets, or did you just blow something new in? I’d love if I had the clean rolled stuff in my attic, it would make it a lot easier to get around up there compared to the loose fiberglas that it currently contains.
A: I think “batt insulation” is the term you’re looking for.
Blown in cellulose is considerable better at insulating than fiberglass. Not only does it fill around uneven shapes (which batts don’t do), but it acts as an air barrier, which is something fiberglass doesn’t do.
It’s also cheaper, and you can work in an attic with it (I understand your opinion about loose fiberglass).
A: Ahh, yes I remember hearing about the cellulose on this list before. Based on how the joists in our attic are I won’t be converting it in to storage space, but I do get up around there to pull wires so it may be a decent option. It would have the same ‘compaction’ problem when I’m walking around trying to find my footing on the hidden beams though - I have tons of spots in my attic where the insulation is really thin from me standing. Is cellulose more robust against that? (I imagine just being able to fluff it up with my hands would be a big benefit over the fiberglass anyway)
A: I had cellulose insulation blown in to the level of the top of the joists. Then I took the jeans-based insulation from Seattle Environmental Homecenter and laid it on top of the joists myself. I’m figuring I’ll need to pull up and re-install those jeans bats when I run new wiring and I didn’t want to have to wade through cellulose covering all the joists.
A: Yeah, I put in a whole-house fan last spring and had the same issue.
You do get compaction, but it seems to me that it’s not as bad because the cellulose is considerably more dense to start with and it’s easy to move it around when you’re done. I take a small dustpan up and use it to scoop the insulation to the sides and then back when I’m done, and that works well for me.
A: A leaf rake works wonders when spreading out blown insulation or moving the fibreglass kind into the hard to reach places.
A: It was about 5 years ago, so I don’t remember who did the work, but it was pretty simple and they did a nice job. All the good installers have a truck-mounted blower, which is quieter (in the house) and moves the product more quickly and with less mess.
The concerns are:
1) Seal any holes up beforehand (I had a cavity from the second floor that was open into the attic and would have take around 20 cu ft of insulation to fill, so I had them seal that up ahead of time
2) If you have skylights, the shafts need to be insulated separately with fiberglass batts
3) You need baffles at the eaves to provide airflow.
4) Recessed lights need to be handled properly. Older housings need to have some airspace between them and the insulation – there are baffles you can get to cover them, and sometimes installers just use open cylinders of flashing to keep the insulation off them. You will definitely lose heat through those kinds of housings, and if you cover them there is heat/fire hazard.
Newer housings (which have IC (Insulation contact) on their label someplace) can have the insulation right up next to them.
5) Attic access covers need to be well handled, and it bit of a pain to get them to seal well. Mine has fiberglass around it so that you don’t get a shower of cellulose every time you open it.
My one regret is that I didn’t have them put in more depth – I have about 8”, and I would be happier if I’d paid a little more for an extra 4” of insulation.
Kenmore Elite dryer no longer heats up
Q: Our electric Kenmore Elite king-size dryer (model #110.63942101) no longer heats up. The drum spins just fine but the dryer is stone cold. This happened suddenly today, in between two loads of laundry.
After some investigation online my best guess is that it blew a fuse or a circuit breaker tripped, though a host of other things such as the relays, control board, thermostat or heating element might also be the culprit. The DIY sites all suggest opening up the dryer and using a multimeter to figure out which part went south.
Not being much of a DIY guy, I have some questions for the more experienced folks on this alias:
1. How hard is this? How difficult is this to diagnose and repair yourself? Can I end up electrocuting myself (seriously)?
2. Got the Kenmore dryer repair manual? Any suggestions on how to get access to and identify the fuses, circuit breakers, relays, etc.? I have the owner’s manual but of course it’s useless. I’ve heard rumors that there’s a repair manual—does anybody on the alias have one for Kenmore dryers that they can lend me?
3. Used the Sears repair service? Were they any good and how much does it cost? The fact that when I went to Sears.com I was redirected to this site http://www.sears.com/sitedown/down.htm really leads me to have very little confidence in their repair service.
4. Is DYI even worth it? Given the cost/benefit ratio here (the cost of a repair guy is really high, a fuse is probably cheap but a new relay or control board would easily cost close to $100), should I just buy a new dryer?
We have two little ones at home so the washer & dryer are in use almost every other day. Therefore any advice would be greatly appreciated. Please little “r” me and I will compile if there’s any additional interest in this issue. Thanks.
A: I had a problem with my dryer and it ended up to be a heating element. The replacement takes 15 minutes and the part is $30 (you will be charged $200+ for the job if you go with the contractor), and the parts is available online. I don’t have a Kenmore, but there should be an instructions how to use multimeter (as you already figured out in your email below).
This helped me, may be it will help you too: http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
A: A couple of years ago, I fixed my old Kenmore dryer, which had your same symptoms. I had no previous appliance repair experience, but I did own a multimeter and knew how to use it. I looked up info on the web, which did not tell me exactly what to do but gave me enough relevant info to convince me I had a chance of doing more good than damage. At a minimum, I was pretty sure I could diagnose the issue. It ended up being the fastest and cheapest fix, and avoided adding to a landfill.
First, I just unplugged it from the wall. That took care of any worry about shocking.
Then it was hard to open the service panel, down low on the front. But when I got it open, there was a handy schematic on the back of the door. I checked the electrical resistance on the heating element (coil), and two thermal fuses that were mounted on a housing around the coil. The coil had good continuity (low resistance), but one of the fuses looked open/blown. It was hard to reach the blown fuse, but I took wired clips off of it, got it out, and tested it again. It sure looked blown, and seemed to be the issue!
So I looked up the part numbers on a Sears service website. There was a warning sticker on the housing for replacing both fuses if one blows . I found both replacements in stock at the Georgetown (south Seattle) parts store – about $30. But I also found a substitute part for the blown fuse at the Redmond parts store (very close to main campus!), for about the same price. They did not list the second fuse in stock, but I decided I wanted to go to Redmond, replace the blown fuse, then replace the other one when available.
Turned out the substitute replacement part had BOTH fuses in the same bag, for $30. Score! I replaced it that night, dryer heat was back! Dryer had broken down on a Friday, and I had it fixed the following Monday.
The cause of the whole situation looked to be lint. Where the big exhaust hose exits the dryer, and turns sharply up before going out the side of the house, there was a lot of lint stuck. And there was scary burnt lint filling up around the heating element housing. I think too much heat built up, because it could not escape fast enough, and the thermal fuse did its job! The lowest temperature thermal fuse opened up at 250 degrees, shutting off the heating element. Got to clean out that lint, I guess!!!
A: Going a little further… this is a great illustration matching my dryer:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_16.asp
if you hover your mouse of the lower right parts in the illustration, an info pane will popup about the heating element. On the side of that housing is another popup about the thermal fuse and thermostat.
Here are the exact parts I replaced! Searched by brand, appliance, part type.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2821&PPStack=1
After some investigation online my best guess is that it blew a fuse or a circuit breaker tripped, though a host of other things such as the relays, control board, thermostat or heating element might also be the culprit. The DIY sites all suggest opening up the dryer and using a multimeter to figure out which part went south.
Not being much of a DIY guy, I have some questions for the more experienced folks on this alias:
1. How hard is this? How difficult is this to diagnose and repair yourself? Can I end up electrocuting myself (seriously)?
2. Got the Kenmore dryer repair manual? Any suggestions on how to get access to and identify the fuses, circuit breakers, relays, etc.? I have the owner’s manual but of course it’s useless. I’ve heard rumors that there’s a repair manual—does anybody on the alias have one for Kenmore dryers that they can lend me?
3. Used the Sears repair service? Were they any good and how much does it cost? The fact that when I went to Sears.com I was redirected to this site http://www.sears.com/sitedown/down.htm really leads me to have very little confidence in their repair service.
4. Is DYI even worth it? Given the cost/benefit ratio here (the cost of a repair guy is really high, a fuse is probably cheap but a new relay or control board would easily cost close to $100), should I just buy a new dryer?
We have two little ones at home so the washer & dryer are in use almost every other day. Therefore any advice would be greatly appreciated. Please little “r” me and I will compile if there’s any additional interest in this issue. Thanks.
A: I had a problem with my dryer and it ended up to be a heating element. The replacement takes 15 minutes and the part is $30 (you will be charged $200+ for the job if you go with the contractor), and the parts is available online. I don’t have a Kenmore, but there should be an instructions how to use multimeter (as you already figured out in your email below).
This helped me, may be it will help you too: http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
A: A couple of years ago, I fixed my old Kenmore dryer, which had your same symptoms. I had no previous appliance repair experience, but I did own a multimeter and knew how to use it. I looked up info on the web, which did not tell me exactly what to do but gave me enough relevant info to convince me I had a chance of doing more good than damage. At a minimum, I was pretty sure I could diagnose the issue. It ended up being the fastest and cheapest fix, and avoided adding to a landfill.
First, I just unplugged it from the wall. That took care of any worry about shocking.
Then it was hard to open the service panel, down low on the front. But when I got it open, there was a handy schematic on the back of the door. I checked the electrical resistance on the heating element (coil), and two thermal fuses that were mounted on a housing around the coil. The coil had good continuity (low resistance), but one of the fuses looked open/blown. It was hard to reach the blown fuse, but I took wired clips off of it, got it out, and tested it again. It sure looked blown, and seemed to be the issue!
So I looked up the part numbers on a Sears service website. There was a warning sticker on the housing for replacing both fuses if one blows . I found both replacements in stock at the Georgetown (south Seattle) parts store – about $30. But I also found a substitute part for the blown fuse at the Redmond parts store (very close to main campus!), for about the same price. They did not list the second fuse in stock, but I decided I wanted to go to Redmond, replace the blown fuse, then replace the other one when available.
Turned out the substitute replacement part had BOTH fuses in the same bag, for $30. Score! I replaced it that night, dryer heat was back! Dryer had broken down on a Friday, and I had it fixed the following Monday.
The cause of the whole situation looked to be lint. Where the big exhaust hose exits the dryer, and turns sharply up before going out the side of the house, there was a lot of lint stuck. And there was scary burnt lint filling up around the heating element housing. I think too much heat built up, because it could not escape fast enough, and the thermal fuse did its job! The lowest temperature thermal fuse opened up at 250 degrees, shutting off the heating element. Got to clean out that lint, I guess!!!
A: Going a little further… this is a great illustration matching my dryer:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_16.asp
if you hover your mouse of the lower right parts in the illustration, an info pane will popup about the heating element. On the side of that housing is another popup about the thermal fuse and thermostat.
Here are the exact parts I replaced! Searched by brand, appliance, part type.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2821&PPStack=1
Most effective method of removing a mole from my front yard
Q: I have a mole that is burrowing in my front yard. I am seeking suggestions\reccommendations for removing?
A: If you have a dog or know someone with a dog, you can put dog poop in the hole.
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/homerealestate/2002039389_homehay19.html
A: Cisco recommends using mint. On his show he suggested getting several cups / handfuls of fresh mint including the stocks, boiling it in a big stock pot for 20 mins or so, then taking that, diluting it and poring it down the holes.
Top line though there are two schools of thought:
- Chase them away (and into your neighbor’s yard) using repellants
- Kill them using traps, poison, smoke bombs, the family cat, etc
A: If you have a dog or know someone with a dog, you can put dog poop in the hole.
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/homerealestate/2002039389_homehay19.html
A: Cisco recommends using mint. On his show he suggested getting several cups / handfuls of fresh mint including the stocks, boiling it in a big stock pot for 20 mins or so, then taking that, diluting it and poring it down the holes.
Top line though there are two schools of thought:
- Chase them away (and into your neighbor’s yard) using repellants
- Kill them using traps, poison, smoke bombs, the family cat, etc
Choose Central vacuum systems
Q: We want to install a central vacuum system in our 4 year old house and would appreciate recommendations for systems and contractors plus any advice you have to share.
A: Our home came pre-plumbed for central vac. We had a Beam unit installed a couple of years ago. It works well—we have 2 small boys and we keep a short “expanding” hose in a cabinet with a vac outlet in the kitchen to clean up the mess after meals. Our house cleaner says it’s the most powerful vac she has used (suction-wise). I did a quick search for the quote and couldn’t find it (or the name of the contractor that installed it) but it wasn’t particularly pricey, in the $1000-$1500 range.
A: We had one of these built into our house back in Illinois when we put it up (~15-20 yrs ago?) Hopefully power has improved since then. It was very nice and convenient for light work and great for stairs, but for dog hair or grime we had to break out the Kirby. It was a pain to empty too…
A: They must be better then—the suction is better than any vac I’ve used and the power head is great on carpets. We don’t have animals but our boys are 2 and 4, so it’s pretty close ;-)
The beam is bagless so you pull off the bottom of the unit and dump it into the trash. It’s not an entirely sterile experience as you have essentially a bucket of fine “powder of whatever was previously on your floors”, but the canister is in the garage so it’s not a big deal.
A: Our home came pre-plumbed for central vac. We had a Beam unit installed a couple of years ago. It works well—we have 2 small boys and we keep a short “expanding” hose in a cabinet with a vac outlet in the kitchen to clean up the mess after meals. Our house cleaner says it’s the most powerful vac she has used (suction-wise). I did a quick search for the quote and couldn’t find it (or the name of the contractor that installed it) but it wasn’t particularly pricey, in the $1000-$1500 range.
A: We had one of these built into our house back in Illinois when we put it up (~15-20 yrs ago?) Hopefully power has improved since then. It was very nice and convenient for light work and great for stairs, but for dog hair or grime we had to break out the Kirby. It was a pain to empty too…
A: They must be better then—the suction is better than any vac I’ve used and the power head is great on carpets. We don’t have animals but our boys are 2 and 4, so it’s pretty close ;-)
The beam is bagless so you pull off the bottom of the unit and dump it into the trash. It’s not an entirely sterile experience as you have essentially a bucket of fine “powder of whatever was previously on your floors”, but the canister is in the garage so it’s not a big deal.
Soaked insulation in crawl space.
Q: We had a water leak from a water pipe running the floor boards that resulted in one piece of the insulation foam under the floor (in crawlspace) getting soaked.
Would it be advisable to replace this or can I let it dry out on its own? I am concerned about potential mold problem (though given the cold weather that might not be an issue).
The other concern I have is about the water pipe not being properly insulated while the foam is wet, which could cause potential leakage if the temperature dips below freezing.
Where can I buy the appropriate insulation material? How is it sold – I just need a small piece to replace the one section.
A: While it would likely dry in time, replacing it couldn’t hurt. I wouldn’t worry about freezing – it takes pretty low temperatures to get a crawlspace below freezing.
You will probably have to buy a board of insulation of the type that you need. Both home depot and lowes sell the stuff.
Would it be advisable to replace this or can I let it dry out on its own? I am concerned about potential mold problem (though given the cold weather that might not be an issue).
The other concern I have is about the water pipe not being properly insulated while the foam is wet, which could cause potential leakage if the temperature dips below freezing.
Where can I buy the appropriate insulation material? How is it sold – I just need a small piece to replace the one section.
A: While it would likely dry in time, replacing it couldn’t hurt. I wouldn’t worry about freezing – it takes pretty low temperatures to get a crawlspace below freezing.
You will probably have to buy a board of insulation of the type that you need. Both home depot and lowes sell the stuff.
Choose Garbage Disposal
Q: I’m looking for something pretty quiet, but not terribly expensive. Any suggestions?
A: I’ve had good luck with InSinkErator. Their Badger line (the cheap $50-100 line) is your run-of-the-mill loud garbage disposal but they work like a champ. The Evolution line will run you $90-250 but are incredibly quiet. I recently purchased the Evolution Compact (I think it was the Compact, ~$150 at Lowes) and amazed at how quiet it is. It does a good job and I can barely hear it.
Installation is relatively easy. Just get rid of the existing hardware, then screw in the new sink mount and slip on the pressure ring, twist the disposal into place on the mounting ring, wire, plumb, and done.
Tools needed depend on if this is a new disposal install or a replacement. If a new install (existing sink), you’ll need a 4” wrench or something to unscrew the current fitting. A replacement will likely just need a screwdriver to unscrew the old disposal mount (it is likely “pressure” fit with 3 or 4 screws). You’ll also need some plumber’s putty to create a good seal in the sink. The rest is just plumbing and varies depending on what is under your sink. Lastly, a lot of garbage disposals just come with a hole to run electrical wiring, in which case you should be comfortable (yah, yah, yah, I read the thread with the flame war about the word “comfortable” in the same sentence with “electricity” but you know what I mean) with doing minor electrical work. Sometimes you get lucky and the disposal will have an attached power cord in which case you just have to have a place to plug the thing in.
A: The often overlooked tool needed for install is a car jack. Takes nearly all of the effort out of removal / install of the unit.
A: I final splurged this last time, I was tired of 2-3r warranty cheap or mid-range units that lasted just as long as their warranty, so I got the top-of-the-line 7yr ultra-quiet InSinkErator.
It is WAY better than any of their mid-range units. You can barely hear it running (really, it is amazing) and with its 3-stage grinder will dispose of even fibrous veggies. (Actually claims it can handle bone, but I’m not testing that).
A: My top of the line KitchenAid (which has most of its parts made by InSinkErator, so probably the same thing that Scott has) is awesome. I haven’t tested bone, but I have ‘tested’ metal. My sister-in-law dropped two measuring spoons down the drain, one was never seen again and the other was so mangled you wouldn’t have known what it was if you weren’t looking for a missing spoon.
A: I’ve had good luck with InSinkErator. Their Badger line (the cheap $50-100 line) is your run-of-the-mill loud garbage disposal but they work like a champ. The Evolution line will run you $90-250 but are incredibly quiet. I recently purchased the Evolution Compact (I think it was the Compact, ~$150 at Lowes) and amazed at how quiet it is. It does a good job and I can barely hear it.
Installation is relatively easy. Just get rid of the existing hardware, then screw in the new sink mount and slip on the pressure ring, twist the disposal into place on the mounting ring, wire, plumb, and done.
Tools needed depend on if this is a new disposal install or a replacement. If a new install (existing sink), you’ll need a 4” wrench or something to unscrew the current fitting. A replacement will likely just need a screwdriver to unscrew the old disposal mount (it is likely “pressure” fit with 3 or 4 screws). You’ll also need some plumber’s putty to create a good seal in the sink. The rest is just plumbing and varies depending on what is under your sink. Lastly, a lot of garbage disposals just come with a hole to run electrical wiring, in which case you should be comfortable (yah, yah, yah, I read the thread with the flame war about the word “comfortable” in the same sentence with “electricity” but you know what I mean) with doing minor electrical work. Sometimes you get lucky and the disposal will have an attached power cord in which case you just have to have a place to plug the thing in.
A: The often overlooked tool needed for install is a car jack. Takes nearly all of the effort out of removal / install of the unit.
A: I final splurged this last time, I was tired of 2-3r warranty cheap or mid-range units that lasted just as long as their warranty, so I got the top-of-the-line 7yr ultra-quiet InSinkErator.
It is WAY better than any of their mid-range units. You can barely hear it running (really, it is amazing) and with its 3-stage grinder will dispose of even fibrous veggies. (Actually claims it can handle bone, but I’m not testing that).
A: My top of the line KitchenAid (which has most of its parts made by InSinkErator, so probably the same thing that Scott has) is awesome. I haven’t tested bone, but I have ‘tested’ metal. My sister-in-law dropped two measuring spoons down the drain, one was never seen again and the other was so mangled you wouldn’t have known what it was if you weren’t looking for a missing spoon.
Privacy trees
Q: Does anyone have recommendations on northwest native species which grow fast and can be used for a privacy screen? Has anyone tried bamboo for privacy screen between two houses?
A: Bamboo is a not recommended because it is very invasive, unless you grow it in a planter or protect the ground around it up to a depth of 18” or more.
I’ve found several other good recommendations in the “Sunset Western Garden” book: http://www.amazon.com/Sunset-Western-Garden-Kathleen-Brenzel/dp/0376039175/ref=pd_sim_b_3_img/002-3148564-1701610
A: English Laurel grows fast, is evergreen and fairly impenetrable visually. It will get quite large and I don’t know if it’s native.
A: Bamboo is a not recommended because it is very invasive, unless you grow it in a planter or protect the ground around it up to a depth of 18” or more.
I’ve found several other good recommendations in the “Sunset Western Garden” book: http://www.amazon.com/Sunset-Western-Garden-Kathleen-Brenzel/dp/0376039175/ref=pd_sim_b_3_img/002-3148564-1701610
A: English Laurel grows fast, is evergreen and fairly impenetrable visually. It will get quite large and I don’t know if it’s native.
Seeds for a new lawn
Q: What are some of the grass types that do well in the Pacific NW, where can I find them? Is early fall or late summer (now) a good time to put in seeds for a new lawn?
A: I’m the furthest from an expert on this topic, but I believe the rule of thumb is to plant seeds in late summer/early fall about 6 weeks before the first frost. OR, in the spring about 6 weeks after the first frost. I’ve found www.scotts.com to be a good site for lawn advice. The local Ace Hardware store in Sammamish is also full of guys with good lawn advice. I overseeded my whole lawn this past spring with Northwest Blend seed (I believe Lily Miller makes it) per the advice of most of the guys at Ace. Some guys there also recommended the Shade/Sun mix seed. I also had a few bare spots where I planted the Northwest Blend seed. At first, that grass grew in more lush than the lawn around it, but over the summer it has “blended” right in with the rest of the lawn such that you wouldn’t know it had been planted separately. So, regardless of what you do, give yourself 4 or 5 months before making any conclusions about the job.
Fertilizing is important too, as is applying a dolomite/lime mix 2 or 3 times a year. That mix will sweeten your soil, making it less acidic, and it’s acidic soil where moss thrives.
I may have strayed a little from what you were asking about, but I’ve learned over the past couple of years that lawn care involves more than just using good seed.
A: I have used the J&B mix quite successfully twice (2 different lawns). J&B is a local landscape company that has seed and sod specifically for our area and they now offer the mix in bags at Home Depot.
That said, because I have zero desire to water (too lazy), I wait until sometime between Oct 1st and 15th to actually spread the seed – the fall rains come shortly thereafter and mother nature takes care of the watering for me. You will still need to prep the soil and use a mulch to keep the seed in place during the rain, but overall I find this approach works very well. Be patient at this time of the year the grass will grow significantly slower, but it is growing – you will be pleasantly surprised in the spring.
A: If you do plant seed in the fall, make sure you don’t do it too late. A good friend of mine had his entire lawn dug up and reseeded last fall, but it turned out to have been done about a week or so too late and he ended up with a very muddy, sparsely grassy lawn in the spring that had to be dug up and reseeded again. The landscaper ended up doing the re-do for free, but still it wasn’t a good thing to have happen.
A: I’m the furthest from an expert on this topic, but I believe the rule of thumb is to plant seeds in late summer/early fall about 6 weeks before the first frost. OR, in the spring about 6 weeks after the first frost. I’ve found www.scotts.com to be a good site for lawn advice. The local Ace Hardware store in Sammamish is also full of guys with good lawn advice. I overseeded my whole lawn this past spring with Northwest Blend seed (I believe Lily Miller makes it) per the advice of most of the guys at Ace. Some guys there also recommended the Shade/Sun mix seed. I also had a few bare spots where I planted the Northwest Blend seed. At first, that grass grew in more lush than the lawn around it, but over the summer it has “blended” right in with the rest of the lawn such that you wouldn’t know it had been planted separately. So, regardless of what you do, give yourself 4 or 5 months before making any conclusions about the job.
Fertilizing is important too, as is applying a dolomite/lime mix 2 or 3 times a year. That mix will sweeten your soil, making it less acidic, and it’s acidic soil where moss thrives.
I may have strayed a little from what you were asking about, but I’ve learned over the past couple of years that lawn care involves more than just using good seed.
A: I have used the J&B mix quite successfully twice (2 different lawns). J&B is a local landscape company that has seed and sod specifically for our area and they now offer the mix in bags at Home Depot.
That said, because I have zero desire to water (too lazy), I wait until sometime between Oct 1st and 15th to actually spread the seed – the fall rains come shortly thereafter and mother nature takes care of the watering for me. You will still need to prep the soil and use a mulch to keep the seed in place during the rain, but overall I find this approach works very well. Be patient at this time of the year the grass will grow significantly slower, but it is growing – you will be pleasantly surprised in the spring.
A: If you do plant seed in the fall, make sure you don’t do it too late. A good friend of mine had his entire lawn dug up and reseeded last fall, but it turned out to have been done about a week or so too late and he ended up with a very muddy, sparsely grassy lawn in the spring that had to be dug up and reseeded again. The landscaper ended up doing the re-do for free, but still it wasn’t a good thing to have happen.
Fix door bell
Q: Our doorbell went quiet a few weeks ago. We enjoyed the silence and reduced soliciting efforts, but our friends complain of sore knuckles from trying to get our attention. So we’d like to get this fixed.
I’m not terrible handy with electrical projects around the house but I suspect this should be relatively simple fix.
A: Doorbells are pretty simple, consisting of a transformer to give 12-16 volts AC, a switch, and the doorbell, with low voltage wire connecting the different components. The circuit looks like transformer->switch->doorbell->transformer. If the transformer doesn’t have power, neither will the doorbell, so make sure you don’t have a tripped breaker in your panel.
Any of the components can go bad, including (but hopefully not) the wiring.
Doorbell switch:Check the voltage to the doorbell switch. You should see voltage if you measure between the two terminals on the button when the button is not pressed. It’s low voltage, so should read about 12-16 volts. If you have voltage there, verify that the voltage goes to zero when you close the switch (by pushing on the button).
If you don’t have voltage at the switch, time to go check the transformer. If you do have voltage at the switch and the button works, time to check the doorbell.
Transformer:Probably in your garage somewhere, on the wall or ceiling. Looks like a small metal block with phone wires going to it. The only exposed terminals on it are low voltage. Check that you have voltage at these. If you don’t, the transformer may be bad. You still want to make sure the transformer itself is getting power. Find the breaker in your breaker panel for the doorbell. Hopefully it’s labeled. If not, carefully (!!!) remove the transformer from the wall and measure the voltage at its input terminals. These are high voltage (120V). If you don’t see 120V, then your problem is hopefully a tripped breaker. If you do see 120V, find the breaker that supplies it and kill the power. With power off, disconnect the transformer and go buy a new one just like it. Note how the wires are connected.
Doorbell:The doorbell usually consists of an electromagnet that moves a rod that strikes the chime. Check that you have voltage to between the two terminals of the doorbell when someone pushes the button. If you do, but you get no chime, replace the doorbell. If you don’t get voltage, check the wiring and connections.
I’m not terrible handy with electrical projects around the house but I suspect this should be relatively simple fix.
A: Doorbells are pretty simple, consisting of a transformer to give 12-16 volts AC, a switch, and the doorbell, with low voltage wire connecting the different components. The circuit looks like transformer->switch->doorbell->transformer. If the transformer doesn’t have power, neither will the doorbell, so make sure you don’t have a tripped breaker in your panel.
Any of the components can go bad, including (but hopefully not) the wiring.
Doorbell switch:Check the voltage to the doorbell switch. You should see voltage if you measure between the two terminals on the button when the button is not pressed. It’s low voltage, so should read about 12-16 volts. If you have voltage there, verify that the voltage goes to zero when you close the switch (by pushing on the button).
If you don’t have voltage at the switch, time to go check the transformer. If you do have voltage at the switch and the button works, time to check the doorbell.
Transformer:Probably in your garage somewhere, on the wall or ceiling. Looks like a small metal block with phone wires going to it. The only exposed terminals on it are low voltage. Check that you have voltage at these. If you don’t, the transformer may be bad. You still want to make sure the transformer itself is getting power. Find the breaker in your breaker panel for the doorbell. Hopefully it’s labeled. If not, carefully (!!!) remove the transformer from the wall and measure the voltage at its input terminals. These are high voltage (120V). If you don’t see 120V, then your problem is hopefully a tripped breaker. If you do see 120V, find the breaker that supplies it and kill the power. With power off, disconnect the transformer and go buy a new one just like it. Note how the wires are connected.
Doorbell:The doorbell usually consists of an electromagnet that moves a rod that strikes the chime. Check that you have voltage to between the two terminals of the doorbell when someone pushes the button. If you do, but you get no chime, replace the doorbell. If you don’t get voltage, check the wiring and connections.
Choose shingles
Q: Any advice on what type of shingles to use? I heard to avoid the three in a row and go with Architectural ones? Any other tips? Is that a valid suggestion?
A: Because the materials are not a big portion of roofing cost (for composite roofs, at least), it’s generally best to go with the higher-grade shingles, as they’ll last longer. They’re also a little easier to install without messing up because they’re more robust.
Because they’re built-up to give shadow lines, the architectural ones last really well, and they also tend to hide any roof irregularities better than 3-tab shingles (when we re-shingled our first house, I noticed how many bad shingle jobs there were in my neighborhood).
The downside? Well, they cost more, and they weigh a bit more.
You should also think about color. Lighter colors will keep the attic space a bit cooler.
Finally, though it costs more, if you are re-roofing you will get a far better result if you do a tear-off.
A: So what does a new roof run now-a-days? Our shake roof is nearing it’s probably 20 year lifespan, and I suspect we’ll have to replace it sooner rather than later…
Is there a “per sq foot” price, or is it so unique to each house given the different number/size of surfaces, complexity of joints, steepness, etc that it is impossible to give a rough idea without having someone come out and estimate?
A: I had multiple layers of shake and shingle to remove and dispose of first and that dwarfed the materials+labor cost of the new roof install, so I went ahead and did a nice metal roof.
Q: Question on the metal roof - did you go with shingles or standing seam?
A: Standing seam, because we like the look of it on our house.Dark Brown to contrast the mocha color we went with for house paint (though dark brown contrasts nicely with a wide range of colors).
Mushrooms in the lawn
Q: The lawn in my front yard looks okay but the backyard lawn has quite a few big mushrooms recently. Are there any natural ways (not using harsh chemicals) to remove them and then prevent them from cropping up again?
A: I usually just pick them (and then mulch them). They don’t seem to be like weeds and continually come back.
A: Mushrooms are pretty rampant this year due to the relatively mild and wetter than normal summer we had (minus that week in late July when it got insanely hot). I have them all over my yard. As soon as I pick up the ones that seemed to grow overnight, I have a new batch awaiting me a day or two later. I can’t win. It’s almost like trying to beat moss, which I’ve learned is a pretty futile effort. Both are especially bad in areas that receive a lot of shade in general and where soil is acidic. I just put dolomite lime mix on my lawn this weekend so that it could sink in with the coming rain and sweeten my soil over the winter. The sweeter soil should slow down the moss growth and hopefully slow down the mushroom growth as well.
But if anyone knows of a fungicide that will do something more quickly and not harm my lawn or the groundwater, I’m listening.
A: In any case, you should make sure children don’t get to them.
Just stay on the safe side as some can have very vivid colors and attract young children.
A: I was told this weekend that some fungus are symbiotic with the trees – those shrooms are just the flowers for what’s significantly bigger beneath the ground, and supplying needed nutrients to the trees’ root systems. Careful applying fungicide.
A: Yeah I was trying to resist suggesting disposing of them by frying them with some eggs and tomatoes
A: I usually just pick them (and then mulch them). They don’t seem to be like weeds and continually come back.
A: Mushrooms are pretty rampant this year due to the relatively mild and wetter than normal summer we had (minus that week in late July when it got insanely hot). I have them all over my yard. As soon as I pick up the ones that seemed to grow overnight, I have a new batch awaiting me a day or two later. I can’t win. It’s almost like trying to beat moss, which I’ve learned is a pretty futile effort. Both are especially bad in areas that receive a lot of shade in general and where soil is acidic. I just put dolomite lime mix on my lawn this weekend so that it could sink in with the coming rain and sweeten my soil over the winter. The sweeter soil should slow down the moss growth and hopefully slow down the mushroom growth as well.
But if anyone knows of a fungicide that will do something more quickly and not harm my lawn or the groundwater, I’m listening.
A: In any case, you should make sure children don’t get to them.
Just stay on the safe side as some can have very vivid colors and attract young children.
A: I was told this weekend that some fungus are symbiotic with the trees – those shrooms are just the flowers for what’s significantly bigger beneath the ground, and supplying needed nutrients to the trees’ root systems. Careful applying fungicide.
A: Yeah I was trying to resist suggesting disposing of them by frying them with some eggs and tomatoes
Monday, October 15, 2007
New Hardwood Floors - creaking?
Q: I have recently had new hardware floors installed. They are pre-finished hardwood floors made my Mirage. They are not laminate. A thin sheet of paper was put down on the sub floor (plywood) then the hardware was installed directly on top (using that funky angular hardwood nail-gun thing). They were installed by a professional and look really good.
Question: How much creaking is normal? It has been about 2 months since the install and as I walk across the floor I sometimes hear creaking. Specifically, it sound like creaking of the hardwood planks (3.25” wide) and not the sub floor. In one area of the floor, I can easily repro the creaking by stepping on one plank and then stepping on another plank just 12” away. At this point I wouldn’t say there is not a tremendous amount of creaking but it has increased over the last 2 months and I am concerned it is going to continue to increase. Some areas are worse than others. Is this normal? One person told me that sub-floor creaking is normal but the pre-finished hardware should not make any noise. Is this correct? Thoughts?
A: Some of this can be attributed to the changing weather. As it gets colder, the boards are going to shrink slightly, just enough to allow some movement that wasn’t there before. You will probably notice the squeaking going away when the weather starts warming up again next year. I have bamboo, and I’ve noticed a little bit more noise the past few weeks than I did through the summer. Last year during the wind storm when there was no power (and thus no heat upstairs), if we walked up stairs onto the hardwood, sometimes it would move enough to make the whole floor sound like it was cracking.
I would say not to worry about it unless it becomes much more noticeable. You’ll probably notice it more in areas where there is a temperature shift; for example the wood by a door or window may creak a bit more around the area it meets with a section of floor that is more in a more stable environment.
What you want to be concerned about is if you start to see some warping or bending, but that’s pretty unlikely.
A: If it is the first floor, you can go down to crawl space. It is easy to tell whether the subfloor or hardwood floor is creaking. Sometime one loose nail can make a loud echo in crawl space and make you believe the whole floor is cracking.
A: I had some hardwood squeaking developed after living in the house for a while. The fix is relatively easy, you drill a pilot hole at an angle from where it squeaks to the closest subfloor joist and sink a nail into it. Then you fill the nail holes with epoxy mixed with some tint color that matches your floor color. It took the installer 10 minutes to fix the squeaks in one spot.
Question: How much creaking is normal? It has been about 2 months since the install and as I walk across the floor I sometimes hear creaking. Specifically, it sound like creaking of the hardwood planks (3.25” wide) and not the sub floor. In one area of the floor, I can easily repro the creaking by stepping on one plank and then stepping on another plank just 12” away. At this point I wouldn’t say there is not a tremendous amount of creaking but it has increased over the last 2 months and I am concerned it is going to continue to increase. Some areas are worse than others. Is this normal? One person told me that sub-floor creaking is normal but the pre-finished hardware should not make any noise. Is this correct? Thoughts?
A: Some of this can be attributed to the changing weather. As it gets colder, the boards are going to shrink slightly, just enough to allow some movement that wasn’t there before. You will probably notice the squeaking going away when the weather starts warming up again next year. I have bamboo, and I’ve noticed a little bit more noise the past few weeks than I did through the summer. Last year during the wind storm when there was no power (and thus no heat upstairs), if we walked up stairs onto the hardwood, sometimes it would move enough to make the whole floor sound like it was cracking.
I would say not to worry about it unless it becomes much more noticeable. You’ll probably notice it more in areas where there is a temperature shift; for example the wood by a door or window may creak a bit more around the area it meets with a section of floor that is more in a more stable environment.
What you want to be concerned about is if you start to see some warping or bending, but that’s pretty unlikely.
A: If it is the first floor, you can go down to crawl space. It is easy to tell whether the subfloor or hardwood floor is creaking. Sometime one loose nail can make a loud echo in crawl space and make you believe the whole floor is cracking.
A: I had some hardwood squeaking developed after living in the house for a while. The fix is relatively easy, you drill a pilot hole at an angle from where it squeaks to the closest subfloor joist and sink a nail into it. Then you fill the nail holes with epoxy mixed with some tint color that matches your floor color. It took the installer 10 minutes to fix the squeaks in one spot.
Kitchen Aid Refrigerator Not Cooling Freezer?
Q: My Kitchen Aid Refrigerator area is not cooling effectively while the freezer is working perfectly which makes me believe that the compressor is OK.
One repair person I spoke to said that what could have happened was that the conduit through which the cold air passes from the freezer to the frig could have frozen up and got blocked with ice. Emptying the frig/freezer and letting all the ice melt did seem to help for a short time but we seem to be back to the same situation.
Any suggestions on what else I could try? Also any suggestions for a good refrigerator repair person?
One repair person I spoke to said that what could have happened was that the conduit through which the cold air passes from the freezer to the frig could have frozen up and got blocked with ice. Emptying the frig/freezer and letting all the ice melt did seem to help for a short time but we seem to be back to the same situation.
Any suggestions on what else I could try? Also any suggestions for a good refrigerator repair person?
A: What is the time frame between when you let the ice melt and you noticed the temp in the fridge compartment getting warm again?
That could indicate that your defrost timer or heater are not working.
A: I would bet on the heater element being broken.
When you get this fixed, I suggest that you spend the time to let the ice melt before the repair person shows up – otherwise you’ll be paying for them to melt the ice.
A: If your Refrigerator is side by side, you should read the manual first. There are some vents between two parts to let cool air flow from freezer to other side and warm air flow back into freezer. You should check those vents that should indicates in manual. If something block it, just remove them.
A: But notice in his post, he said melting the ice seemed to help for awhile, but then it went back the other way.
Sometimes it is all too easy to hit the setting for that cross over vent and not realize it. However, if that were the case, even after the defrost, there would be no significant difference in the perceived operaton.
Q: It seemed to be better for a couple of days (when we actually did not open the fridge too much) before it seemed not to cool again. Yes my fridge is side by side and it is the vents between the two parts which was blocked with ice.
What function does the heater element perform?
A: To cool down the interior, the fridge pumps very cold gas through a set of coils in the freezer (at least in most designs – some use multiple coils). The gas is below freezing, so if there is any moisture in the air, the coils will get a coating of frost on them. Over time, this builds up, and because ice is a pretty good insulator, you lose efficiency and cooling capacity (and in your case, block the vents, too).
In the olden days, you had to defrost the freezer at specific times to keep this from happening (and you still have to do this on many standalone freezers).
The advent of “frost-free” fridges got rid of this. There is a defrost timer that periodically turns off the compressor (so there is no cooling going on) and turns on a heater (or heaters) near the coils. Those heat the coils, the frost drips off as water, and then things are great.
If you heaters break, you get a continual accumulation of ice.
Water Heater didn't produce hot water?
Q: My water heater suddenly didn’t produce any hot water. I knew nothing about my water heater. It’s been there since I bought the house 5 years ago. Where should I start for troubleshooting the issue?
A: http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/trblsht_hwh_2.htm
Q: My water heater produced some white form of water a few months ago. I don’t know its exact age. But it must have some sediment in it.
I looked up the price of the electric water heater, I thought it may be more economic for me to replace with a new one.
Do you know which brand of electricity heater is both energy efficient and reliable? Where can I get good price (smart deal)?
A: FAST Water Heaters did a good job at my place.
A: I talked to FAST. They had Rheem Electric Heater in 66 Gallons with 6 years warranty quote of $819. (including basic installation). What do you think about the price?
The 50Gallons only cost $499.
A: If you don’t have any leaking, or rust-colored water, you might just need to flush sediment (and replace the anode while you’re at it!)
http://www.chilipepperapp.com/flush.htm
Note that all water heaters (both electric and natural gas) have a wear item in them – the sacrificial anode (a metal bar, usually aluminum or magnesium, that bolts into the top of the heater and hangs into it). It needs to be replaced every 3-5 years, as it’s designed to give its life to save the tank interior and prevent it from rusting through. If not replaced, your tank will go bad. Most 3 year and 6 year heaters are very similar, the 6 year might just have a longer anode, and perhaps slightly more insulation. Not checking or replacing the anode is by far the most common reason for water heater failure. Buy a 3-year warranty model (if you’re happy with the energy factor) and check/replace the anode regularly, and you’ll be fine for a lot of years.
http://www.chilipepperapp.com/ewh.htm
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/how_to/4206690.html
Re your prices etc, Rheem (like most makers) have a lot of different models in any given size. Most 50 gallon electric heaters are $250-300, and 66 gallon for about $100 more.
Here’s a Whirlpool 66 gallon with 6 year warranty in stock at the Lowe’s in Bellevue for $354. So that’s basically $465 they’re charging for delivery and installation. Seems a little steep.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=140467-135-E2F65HD045V&lpage=none
A: I tested the circuitry that had two power input to the upper Anode, it showed both nodes had power. And I tested the lower anode, only one side had power, the other don’t.
I chatted with a guy in Home depot. I was told that it’s either upper or lower anode is on, which is controlled by the circuitry. So, I guess upper anode is alright and lower anode is shut off by the controller. But even with one anode, it should produce some heat. So, it might have other problems that causes the issue.
Asking professional to repair, it’s $99 + any parts need replaced. I figured that the cost might end up close to replacing with a new one. My existing heater is made in Dec 98. It’s very close to retire age.
Regarding to the water heater, is Rheem a better brand than Whirlpool or Sears? The EF is different only by .2 (0.92 vs 0.90), but I don’t know which one is reliable.
Thanks a lot for your help, I am on learning curve of this water heater thing.
A: I think we’re confusing two things.
The anode should not be powered. It’s a sacrificial piece of metal (like anodes on the keels of ships) to ‘accept’ the corrosion, rather than other metal parts of your tank. It bolts into the top of the tank, and hangs down into the tank.
You seem to be talking about the two heater elements, which do have 220V power to them, but yes this is controlled by the controller, or more specifically, the controller in conjunction with the themostats, usually each element will have its own thermostat. Easy way to tell, run hot water from multiple taps until you get cold water, then you should have full power to heat up the water in the tank with both elements. Note that often only one element will come on at a time, usually upper first then lower (as warm water rises). So you might need to wait a while to check both.
Re reliability, Sears never makes their own, I don’t know who currently makes their water heaters. Both Whirpool and Rheem should be reasonable.
Oh, and re the ‘white water’, this could just be dissolved oxygen etc. in the water, that might have been under high pressure (esp. if you don’t have an expansion tank, and a large %age of the water in the tank was heated, as water expands when heated), then when it comes out of the tap, pressure lowers, and dissolved gases can expand. If this is from water out of the hot water tap, and it turns clear after sitting a little while, this is what it is, nothing to worry about.
A: The picture is clearer to me now. I eventually go with the a new tank. Part of reason is it’s quite old already and not efficient and part of the reason is lacking of confidence to operate this thing. After I watched the technician from FAST do the replacement and knew the exact procedures to drain the tank and purge the water, I am more confident to do this by my own in the future.
The guy from FAST suggest that the new Tank is a self-cleaning, meaning that it will clean it by itself. So, I don’t have to drain it every year.
Sliding Doors vs. French Doors
Q: At the risk of starting a huge debate I’m going to ask the question anyway…
1st some background:
We are building a new home and are just fine tuning the elevations on plans with our architect and our contractor.
I, along with my contractors wife and architect, very much like the look and open feel of French doors – our contractor and my husband like the small bit of added security, the 0 clearance, better screen coverage and the lower cost of sliding glass doors. (one set of these will be two sliding doors - sliding, meeting in the middle and locking together).
I’ve had sliding glass doors in other homes and have hated the metal ones. The vinyl one I had was nice, but it was also only about 1 yr old when I left it.
I’ve never had French doors.
Now the questions:
I’m wondering for those of you that have had vinyl sliding doors for a while – are there any problems with them? Such as sticking or going off track?
For those with French doors, any problems or concerns with them? Was the extra cost worth it?
For both – any regrets in installing one vs. the other?
Thank you for your opinions.
If there is interest in a compile I will send out.
I’m sure I’ll be requesting more of your opinions as I get more involved in the process...
If you want to impart any more kernels of wisdom my way (like stay away from granite counters if you use a lot of lemon or use laminate floor in the kids’ rooms till they get older) I would greatly appreciate it.
1st some background:
We are building a new home and are just fine tuning the elevations on plans with our architect and our contractor.
I, along with my contractors wife and architect, very much like the look and open feel of French doors – our contractor and my husband like the small bit of added security, the 0 clearance, better screen coverage and the lower cost of sliding glass doors. (one set of these will be two sliding doors - sliding, meeting in the middle and locking together).
I’ve had sliding glass doors in other homes and have hated the metal ones. The vinyl one I had was nice, but it was also only about 1 yr old when I left it.
I’ve never had French doors.
Now the questions:
I’m wondering for those of you that have had vinyl sliding doors for a while – are there any problems with them? Such as sticking or going off track?
For those with French doors, any problems or concerns with them? Was the extra cost worth it?
For both – any regrets in installing one vs. the other?
Thank you for your opinions.
If there is interest in a compile I will send out.
I’m sure I’ll be requesting more of your opinions as I get more involved in the process...
If you want to impart any more kernels of wisdom my way (like stay away from granite counters if you use a lot of lemon or use laminate floor in the kids’ rooms till they get older) I would greatly appreciate it.
A: It also depends on the layout of the room. You need to consider the space the French doors need when opened.
Our dining room has sliding doors. French doors would have been nicer, but we would have had to get a smaller dining table if French doors were to swing all the way open, and it would still be awkward to get around the door and the table.
A: I heard this before as well….my thought was “why not have them swing outward if you have a large enough deck/space?”
Thoughts about French doors opening outward?
A: Gotta have fancy hinges to have inside hinges with outside swinging door.
A: You don’t need inside hinges. You can use outside security hinges where the pins can’t be removed.
A: Security hinges are only ½ the solution though. You also need hinge bolts (then even if they drill out or force the hinge bolts the door does not pull out).
Low water pressure at the first floor?
Q: We have a 2-story house in Sammamish. The water pressure in the kitchen and bath room at the first floor appears to be low (it’s been low since we moved in). Warm water is worse than cold water. However both cold and warm water at the second floor seem to be just fine. I’m wondering if others have seen similar issue before. What would the normal reason be for this issue? Who do you start the diagnosis with, local water company or a plumber? Do you have a plumber recommendation?
A: Do other areas of the first floor have the same issue? Like an outdoor faucet?
Q: Both of the 2 outdoor faucets on the first floor level, one at the front and one at the back yard, appear to be fine.
A: I would do some of my own investigation first before calling plumbers, which are expensive.
Buy a book on plumbing in the house (Lowe’s or Home depot should have), read it to understand how the pipes go around the house, go to garage (heater) to check hot water pipes, go down to crawl space to check first floor pipes.
A: Then it seems you are clogged at a Tee somewhere, most likely. Is the plumbing accessible in the crawlspace?
Also, have you verified that if you remove the shower head you still have bad pressure? It could be possible you have water restricting heads, but unlikely.
A: Do other areas of the first floor have the same issue? Like an outdoor faucet?
Q: Both of the 2 outdoor faucets on the first floor level, one at the front and one at the back yard, appear to be fine.
A: I would do some of my own investigation first before calling plumbers, which are expensive.
Buy a book on plumbing in the house (Lowe’s or Home depot should have), read it to understand how the pipes go around the house, go to garage (heater) to check hot water pipes, go down to crawl space to check first floor pipes.
A: Then it seems you are clogged at a Tee somewhere, most likely. Is the plumbing accessible in the crawlspace?
Also, have you verified that if you remove the shower head you still have bad pressure? It could be possible you have water restricting heads, but unlikely.
Low air flow from forced air furnace?
Q: Hi, As the weather getting colder, I start to use the furnace (forced air) to heat my house. However, I notice the air flow from the second floor outlets from the furnace is smaller than before. Last year I could feel the air blowing from those outlets, but now the flow is quite small (the air flow is strong on the first floor though). The difference this year from last year is that I open up all the outlets on the first floor, while last year at least half of them were kept closed. My question is: Besides closing some outlets on the first floor, is there any other ways (like to get the furnace and air duct serviced?) to boost up the air flow for the second floor?
Many thanks!
A: Have you changed the furnace filter recently? They need to be changed periodically, every 30-90 days depending on what kind of filter and other factors.
A: If this is occurring only for second floor outlets, something could be blocking them. When I got duct cleaning done, two rooms magically started getting more air. If the second floor main pipe is blocked, ur first floor vents should be blowing more air now so check if that has happened. If that is the case, get ducts cleaned. However if it is a furnace specific issue like what Mike mentioned below, you should see a reduction in all ur vents (not only second floor).
Though closing 1st floor vents may get you more air on 2nd floor, I don’t think this should be used as a permanent solution if it involves closing several vents at the same time . I used to regularly close a few vents until the furnace person at my place recommended against it claiming it pressures outgoing airflow for the furnace and reduces its life (I guess it is probably still ok to close one or two vents but if you are planning to wipe out the entire 1st floor, then you may want to reconsider it over long term)
Many thanks!
A: Have you changed the furnace filter recently? They need to be changed periodically, every 30-90 days depending on what kind of filter and other factors.
A: If this is occurring only for second floor outlets, something could be blocking them. When I got duct cleaning done, two rooms magically started getting more air. If the second floor main pipe is blocked, ur first floor vents should be blowing more air now so check if that has happened. If that is the case, get ducts cleaned. However if it is a furnace specific issue like what Mike mentioned below, you should see a reduction in all ur vents (not only second floor).
Though closing 1st floor vents may get you more air on 2nd floor, I don’t think this should be used as a permanent solution if it involves closing several vents at the same time . I used to regularly close a few vents until the furnace person at my place recommended against it claiming it pressures outgoing airflow for the furnace and reduces its life (I guess it is probably still ok to close one or two vents but if you are planning to wipe out the entire 1st floor, then you may want to reconsider it over long term)
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